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Published: July 26th 2005
Sunrise at Sossusvlei
Pretending to be something or other...or just this appreciative that I made it to the top!!!Having crossed the border from Zambia, the road that stretched out ahead was long and straight. It welcomed my feet hanging out of the window in addition to catching up in my diary. (I'm always having to catch up in my diary and in the blog entries if you haven't noticed!!) This drive along the Caprivi strip couldn't be this perfect for too long, could it? Nnnnnoooooooo, of course not!!
Hearing a loud bang in a country you are not familiar with can always give you a fright. The image of bandits jumping out of the bushes as I fought them off with my super travellers powers was cut short when I was asked not to loose all of the nuts as we changed the flat tire. Within 15 minutes we were back on the road and I plunged back into my diary. 'BANG' Yes, another flat. Luckily we were pros by now. These events did cause us to fall behind schedule (8 hours on the road) so we decided it might be best to make camp in Rundu. We watched a true African sun set over the river and our conversations led to Angola and the Caprivi Strip
that we had just driven through. So many lives had been lost in these areas through various battles, yet I peacefully poked out of my tent thinking of my sharp tire changing skills. How life changes over the years eh?
The morning began early as we drove south to Windhoek. I had had the opportunity to take one bus for 21 hours, but thought the camping break might be appreciated. Having a hamburger for breakfast isn't quite what I had envisioned, but it went down regardless!! When we finally pulled into the Chamelion Backpackers, I had to sort out my tour details for the next day (they wanted the dosh) so I had to make my way out onto the streets to withdraw some cash from the cashpoint. A bit freaked out as I had been warned that I'd loose everything to muggers if I wasn't too careful. The streets were earily desolate. Even though it was a Sunday night, this didn't calm my nerves. I couldn't quite follow the directions the Chamelion staff had given me, but eventually I found a machine. I don't think I even saw the buttons I was pressing as I was looking
Sunrise at Sossusvlei
The endless dunes surrounded us around too often! At least it gave me the money. I won't tell you where I hid the money, and I truely hope nobody saw! Safe and sound and into bed before my worried anticipation aged me beyond recognition.
I was surprised to discover that there were 9 of us booked onto the tour, a big number compared to my past tour experiences. Unfortunetly there were no potential candidates for me to fall deeply in love with, but I did smile when a familiar face was within the group. It was through Adrian's advice whilst on the Tazara train journey that I actually decided to come to Namibia. We drove and drove along a very empty road up through the mountains heading towards our campground for 2 nights in Sesriem.
After setting up camp we had a chilled out afternoon in order for us to build up our energy for the evening events. We walked across the desert behind our tents and approached the first dune to climb and watch the sunset. For those of you that have climbed dunes before, you'll probably remember 2 things quite clearly. They never end and they never end! I
Sunrise at Sossusvlei
Having exhausted myself climbing the first dune, this is where I contemplated rolling down the next... was reminded of my climbs up and up in Petra and Egypt. The difference being each step forward I would then sink back two! Regardless of how high the group continued to climb, there is always another dune higher. It was then time to make our way back, a surprise dinner was being prepared for us. MMMMMmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, my first chance for tasting African game was extremely yummy. Kudu is a type of antelope that was a treat to remember.
The next morning we dragged ourselves out of bed at 5am in order to watch the sunrise at the Sossusvlei dunes. Again, it was a huf and a puf but I made it for the rays of sun creeping over the top. The colours that were created on all of the dunes surrounding us looked like golden syrup melting into a bowl of strawberries. After breathing in the moment for as long as possible the time came to leave. I felt like the 'RoadRunner' as I ran down the side amidst a swarm of sand around my feet. Within a minute I had landed. Amazing how all that climbing up results in a quick thump at the bottom.
Deadvlei
Didn't really know what I'd soon be seeing The next stop was to the postcard picture area called Deadvlei. Many many years ago trees grew here fed by the underground rivers. The dunes built up around them and petrified the wood into dark looming shapes within the surrounding walls of sand. Everybody walking around must have been picturing the same Dali picture that had popped into my mind. Another dune, another climb. I was wiped out and thoroughly enjoyed the afternoon in the freezing cold pool back at camp.
Dinner was an incredibly delicious feast again, followed by interesting conversations around the campfire. Getting to know strangers by playing the game "2 Truths and a Lie" couldn't be more entertaining! Just when you think you've sussed everybody out, people told stories of being beer drinking champions in their country or of gracing magazine covers. It's a very entertaining game and I'd like to think I put in my 2 bits worth. Having led such an angelic life I felt as though I could drop a few jaws telling stories of my high school days. I now I have a chance to think up some good stories for the future!!
The next day was
Deadvlei
The postcard picture a drive through Solitaire and up to Walvis Bay. Saw some flamingos over lunch and then continued the drive north to Swakopmund-Namibia's adventure capital. I had a hard time eliminating some of the events for me to do, but settled on an afternoon of quad biking and a morning of skydiving. I figure if I don't try something like this now, I never will eh?
I had thought of quad biking as quite a boys toy, but changed my mind as soon as I cranked the engine. We cruised into the dunes at a gentle pace being sure to follow our leaders' tracks. It was soon clear that we were extremely lucky to be in a group of just four. I couldn't help but stick my tongue out at the centipede of slow bikes that crossed us! I also discovered that my quad wasn't quite powerful enough as I stuggled to reach the crest of some of the dunes. It was a rollercoaster adventure as we lost all sense of direction and gained all sense of freedom. An adventure to be repeated one day.
Our group was scheduled to join another tour group for our final
Deadvlei
I really was there!! supper, but there was soon a second plan developed at the cool end of the table. We snuck off to enjoy the menu of a restaurant that specialized in African game-the Kudu had an effect on us all!! We all ordered the biggest game plate possible and gripped our steak knives anticipation. Crocodile, warthog, ostrich, zebra and two others I can no longer remember-passed my lips creating a mixed reaction. All yummy, but croc certainly ain't my thing!! We rolled out of the restaurant and joined the rest of the group for a few drinks in a local club. It's been a while since I've boogied and drank in a club, and this one felt no different than one in London or Vancouver. A couple of beers and we left-I need a good sleep in order to be able to jump out of a plane in the morning!!
I managed to climb out of bed ready to conquer any fears still quivering in my body. A light light breakfast followed by the adventure rep standing in the door, "All activities are cancelled today due to the wind storms" Huh? I cannot tell you how the disappointment took over.
Off to the sunset
Crossing the desert to the first dune Oh well, let's go have a coffee in town! I'll try and jump out of a plane in New Zealand for Halloween!
Coffee was great. It was nice to get back into the old routine and to be joined by Adrian, Hogne and Inger-Lene at a shop where they could order some scrumptious cakes! We then had a chance to look around town and absorb the German feel of Swakopmund. I hadn't been expecting the clean streets and colourful buildings so was pleasantly surprised. No time to wait for the storms to clear, so we began the drive back to Windhoek.
After a refreshing shower at the backpackers the news of the London bombs reached us. Knowing how many people there are in London and how unlikely it is that the special people in my life would be there and then, I joined the gang for a meal in a local hotspot. It's hard to get rid of the unknown fears, so I was extremely relieved to get through to everybody and hear the stories. Thank God everybody I know is okay although shaken. I'm so sorry for those that have lost their loved ones.
Off to the sunset
Still climbing...and getting a bit cold My final day in Windhoek was walking around the shops with Adrian and enjoying a final game steak at another hotspot. I then jumped on a 22 hour bus ride down to Capetown for a 2 week holiday with my old London flatmate Claudia. The South African entry to follow will have some fab people photos including the ultimate coffeecat birthday breakfast! Hopefully I'll catch up soon as in real time I'm leaving Jo'berg tomorrow (27.07.05) for a 13 hour flight to Hong Kong!!
Love to everybody, thanks for the messages!!
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Scotbandit
non-member comment
SOOOPER....
Fiona, your writing style is very enjoyable, and I need your permission to save a couple of your photos (the ones with your group and the one at the restaurant table) pleeeese. Will follow your adventures in HongKong! Take good care of yourself girl. Liz