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Published: June 10th 2006
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magestic cheeta
we visited a cheeta park in northern namib, home to about 20 wild cheetas that had been saved from an otherwise untimely demise due to their proximity to farming land. they were gorgeous and suave characters. even before the first rays of light begin to emerge, a friendly and sing songy "good morning" seeps in from somewhere outside the canvas walls of my tent, penetrating the cool blackness and confirming to me, in my sleepy haze, that the time has come to fully awake. using the light of my head-torch, i pull on a few layers of "safari" clothing and rummage around for the spot that i strategically laid my toothbrush and face soap...always a morning scavenger hunt, no matter how prepared i attempted to be the evening before. after a quick trip to the facilities and a blissful cup of hot, steaming coffee, i pull myself up into the open top safari jeep and slide onto one of the bench seats, joining the rest in our group. we are all still negotiating the sleep against the precipice of daylight hours and briskness of the chilled, opaque air. 'good mornings' and quite conversations are murmured against the whirl of the engine, and in short time we are rumbling and lurching over the rocky, dirt roads and making our way into the open Savannah's of the park.
dawn is one of the best times of the day
to soak up the magical vistas and witness the various animals and birds that live harmoniously on the African planes. as we move into the park, strong, brilliant rays of light are already starting to pierce through the clumps of clouds and almost immediately the black night sky has transformed into energetic swaths of purple, pink, and oranges. this sight alone seems enough to substantiate the early rise. as the day's journey begins, we are all filled with anticipation and alertness as the dry grassy fields surrounding the jeep begin to unfold, dotted with patches of brush and tall acacia trees. slowly navigating our way along the carved out path, everyone begins scanning the landscape with focused attentiveness for any swift movement or slight shift on the horizon. an almost palpable energy sits in the air. maybe its the closeness with nature. or just being surrounded by the wild, primal forces of natural existence.
there is never the promise of what one will see while on a game drive, and most seem to be combinations of longer stretches of landscape and calming 'searching', peppered with bursts of activity: a wild herd of zebras grazing on the plain. a group
of springbok stretched across the road, startled into 'pronking' as the truck approaches. a munching family of giraffes working their way through a group of trees, slowly visible through the branches and leaves. or the majestic and graceful lumbering of an elephant, who miraculously seems to appear out of nowhere, and passes so close that you can see the deep trenches of wrinkles that cover her slate grey body and the long, thick, black eyelashes that shade soft, gentle, and soulful eyes. both the 'searching' and the 'finding' are exciting and transforming experiences.
over the course of the next few weeks, we worked our way up the western coast of Namibia, into Botswana and across to Victoria falls in Zimbabwe. we stopped for an afternoon at the cape cross seal colony on the atlantic shores of northwest Namibia. this stretch of beach is home to what looked like a zillion furry, brown seals who were making the most of their day with some serious sun bathing and frequent 'ocean dip' interludes. it almost makes you want to come back in your next life as a seal, if not for the less than pleasant 'odor' that eventually drove us back
into the bus to continue the trek north.
one afternoon safari in chobe national park, Botswana, we came upon a whole village of baboons. some scouring the small bushes for leaves and berries. some sitting next to (or in the middle of) the road, peacefully contemplating the afternoon or gently and meticulously grooming their neighbor. mothers ambled around the group with little ones swinging effortlessly from their bellies or balanced on their backs. and my favorite...a mother with her newborn baby and its older sibling, engrossed in a grooming, eating, and playing routine - shockingly similar to a human family in both gestures, expressions, and behavior.
in etosha national park (namibia), the late evening was spent sitting quietly and patiently in the pools of dusky artificial light that spilled over from the nearby watering hole. it was so silent you could actually hear the faint crunch and slow, careful, and cautious approach of two black rhinos, coming in for a nightly drink. one of the most revered and also scarcest of the big five (originally classified based on difficulty to kill back in bow and arrow time), it was an amazing and unforgettable experience to share in a
deep in the okavango
me from our "campsite"...precariously close to a family of 8 or 9 hippos that are hanging out in the water near my top hand. "nice little hippos!" part of their nightly stroll.
eland, gemsbok, kudu, red hartebeest, black faced impala, guinea foul, secretary birds, stately oryx, brown hyena's, and warthogs also speckled the Savannah's and kept us entertained with their colorful patterns and curious behavior.
another highlight was a three day trip into the okavango delta, a marshy, secluded, wilderness that sits at the top of Botswana. the main mode of transportation through the delta are wooden macorow's that have been crafted from local trees and slide through the water with efficiency and grace, navigated by a designated 'poler' who stands in the back. after a two hour macorow trip through enormous water reeds, lilly pad ponds, and a bustling overgrowth of papyrus and feather dusters, the watery path opened up into a larger swampish pond. as we poled across, in site of our water side campsite, the water to the left began to ripple and deep, gurgling noises broke the peaceful silence. hippos!!
our initial excitement and curiosity was instantly transformed into waves of panic, heart palpitations and stomach dizziness, as we were casually informed that hippos are the most dangerous animal for humans. this is due to their ability to move through water
family photo
this is taken from a boat and a rare capture of them fully out of water. cute little guys, but as you can see...not someone you want running after you at a 40k/hr clip! (and land) at speeds of 40 kph, their immense territorial and aggressive nature when you've 'crossed the line' into their personal space, and the massive strength and nonnegotiable nature of their jaws. as we had just unknowingly 'popped' into their personal space, and were gliding a mere 20 meters from their little huddle of eyes and ears poking out of the water...they were now visible agitated....and quickly making a move to remedy the intrusion. we all simultaneously calculated the: relatively short distance of our current positions; the matchstick nature of our watercraft; and the negligible speed and concern of our poling 'captains'. as we made attempts to 'pole' past and onto the shores of the campsite, i am sure that my hand paddling didn't help all too much....other than attempting to calm the mental chaos. as it turns out, we shared space with the hippos for the next three days and after the initial proximity fears subsided and we established our respective 'boundaries', they turned out to be relatively harmless companions and lulled us to sleep each night with their gurgles and 'laughing'.
the tour wrapped up in the adrenaline fueled town of Victoria falls, world renown for its
group photo
hanging out in maun before the delta excursion. i think this was right before we had the "sprinbok" shooter challenge....from the floor! gushing and elaborate waterfalls that careen at vast speeds over the canyon separating Zimbabwe from neighboring Zambia. normally a vibrant town and tourist oasis, victoria falls (zimbabwe side) is currently a visible embodiment of the political and economic struggles that are plaguing the country. inflation is at 4000% and there is a massive lack of resources, including food and clothing. the currency is basically worthless and a dinner out requires a bag to bring enough money to pay the bill. local craftsman and even some businessmen would rather be paid with a piece of clothing, bracelet or even a nalgene bottle.
despite the disparaging economic environment, we managed to have a fun three days, taking part in the various activities, having a memorable and fun night dancing in am open air, local bar to live reggae melodies, and closing down another local jaunt with a last night of goodbye's and celebrations.....which somehow also included a wardrobe change.
gotta love bribery photos!
all in all it was an unforgettable 21 day journey through southern Africa, a chance to meet a fabulous group of intriguing and diverse new friends, and the opportunity to touch a bit of the 'Africa'
that's been swimming around in my head for all these years.
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rick
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love the writing
your descriptions are so colorful and remind much in depth about the trip.. thanks for sharing.