Blogs from Morocco, Africa - page 3

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Africa » Morocco » Meknès-Tafilalet » Volubilis July 30th 2023

Today I’ve booked a tour to the Roman ruins of Volubilis which are somewhere around 50 kms west of Fes, and then on to the city of Meknes. First stop is the very pretty mountainside village of Moulay Idris, which overlooks Volubilis. Its major claim to fame is as the site of the tomb of Idris I, who was a direct descendant of the Prophet Mohammed, and co-founded Fes along with his son Idris II. The tomb is of course off limits to “infidels”, but no problem there I’m told by an enthusiastic looking local who thinks he can smell money. “Just follow me my friend“ he says, and the message seems to be that he can get me to a viewing point overlooking the tomb site. I assume this is just a few steps away, ... read more
Volubilis
Volubilis
Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail, Meknes

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes July 29th 2023

It’s a slow start this morning as we recover from our long and sleep deprived two day sojourn out into the desert. I am however pleased to note that I do seem to be slowly learning to walk again after the several hours I spent astride a camel. I head bravely off alone yet again into the maze that is the Medina. The impossible dream is to somehow make it the two kilometres or so through to Bab Boujloud, the Blue Gate, which is at the opposite end of the maze. The walls that surround the Medina are somewhere around eight kilometres long and there are lots of gates. The original Bab Boujloud was apparently nothing special, but when the French took over they decided the city should have a grand entrance, so in 1913 the ... read more
Jewish Quarter
Intense discussion in the Medina
City walls

Africa » Morocco » Meknès-Tafilalet » Rissani July 28th 2023

We rouse from our sleep deprived night, most of it spent in futile attempts to cool down by lying on wet towels in our tent oven. I have an early morning chat to our “guide” Ouma and ask her how she slept. She says fine. OK I suppose she’s Moroccan so maybe she’s used to the heat. I tell her it was way too hot in our tent and we hardly slept at all … and her response… “even with the air conditioner?”. Huh? So we paid for the best tent money could buy, but the “guide“ got air conditioning and we didn’t? I’m ready to kill someone and Issy‘s sensing I might not be too fussy about who it is. I take a deep breath and launch into my next chat … with the young ... read more
Desert camp
Desert camp
Pool, desert camp

Africa » Morocco » Meknès-Tafilalet » Merzouga July 27th 2023

Today we head off on a two day overnight sojourn out into the Sahara Desert. Our guide introduces herself as Ouma, and we meet our travelling companions, a young Dutch couple and a family of three from France. We climb steadily up into the Atlas Mountains as we head south, passing through some impressively thick and extensive cedar forests. Our first stop is at the town of Ifran, the so-called "Switzerland of Morocco". We’re up at over 1,600 metres and most of the buildings look like Swiss chalets; they’ve got steeply sloping rooves which will hopefully stop them caving in in winter when the snow piles up. Ouma tells us that this is the world’s cleanest town. We haven’t been to every town in the world, but I’m still not overly sure about that particular claim. ... read more
View from the dunes
Desert camp
Heading into the dunes

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes July 26th 2023

We wake up seemingly alive and well … and it even looks like we’re in the same room we went to sleep in, so we appear to have survived the night … unless of course this is yet another elaborate ruse by our would be kidnappers …. We enjoy breakfast in the ground floor courtyard next to the pool and one of the fountains .… well we enjoy some of the breakfast. I’m not sure anyone could eat everything that’s been served up and still be able to waddle out of here - pancakes, roti, flat buns, a massive basket of bread rolls, yoghurt, large bowls of fruit salad, a cup of cheese, olives and scrambled eggs, all washed down with tea, coffee and orange juice. I think I need to go back to bed. This ... read more
Local artwork
Al-Attarine Madrasa
Traditional handicrafts complete with metal beading

Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes July 25th 2023

Today we get to sample Morocco’s train system with a four hour ride south to the ancient city of Fes. The Tangier train station is an unexpectedly pleasant surprise - a large, opulent modern edifice that would put any train station in Melbourne to absolute shame … not that that would be all that hard. The countryside south of Tangier doesn’t look all that dissimilar to the farmland back home - fertile and productive, with seemingly endless fields of olives, corn, oranges and other sundry fruit and vegetables, all grown under irrigation on an almost industrial scale. And we soon realise why it looks and feels so much like home - there are gum trees, lots of gum trees - the only things missing are the kangaroos. We spend some of the time following the Atlantic ... read more

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Tangier July 24th 2023

The plan today is to take a trip west on the local hop-on-hop-off bus over towards the Atlantic coast. I ask the gent at reception where it leaves from, and he tells me that he can sell me a ticket … well a sort of a ticket … he tells me I have to give him 20 dirham, and when I get to the bus stop I need to pay the other 110 dirham to the driver. He says he hasn’t got any change for the 50 dirham note I give him, so he’ll give me my sort of ticket, keep my 50 dirham, and give me my change when I get back. I wander along to the bus stop, where it seems everyone else is only paying 110 dirham in total; none of them have ... read more
Cape Spartel Lighthouse
Tangier waterfront
Our hotel

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Chefchaouen July 23rd 2023

We discover that the activity of choice for young Tangierians at 5am on Sunday mornings is to tear up and down the main drag outside our waterfront hotel with their hands more or less constantly parked on their horns. At least now we don’t need to worry about our alarm clock not going off. And whilst on the subject of clocks and time, what time actually is it? I’ve got three “devices”, and at the moment they‘re displaying three different times. My iPad’s synced to the hotel wifi, so we think that’s probably right. Our phone company doesn’t do roaming in Morocco, but our phones occasionally detect a network across the water in Spain, and when they do they revert to Spanish time, which is an hour ahead ... and my Fitbit … it’s always been ... read more
Chefchaouen
Chefchaouen
Discussing the events of the day, Chefchaouen

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Tangier July 22nd 2023

A quick glance out the window into daylight suggests that things aren’t quite as chaotic as they were last night. And it seems that the immutable rule of driving with your hand constantly on the horn only applies during non-daylight hours, which probably explains why we were eventually able to get some shuteye. It seems much cooler here than in the oven that was Spain. I head cautiously out for a wander. This felt like a very intimidating place when we arrived last night, and my confidence isn’t helped by the hotel entrance … well actually that would be two entrances. One of them you just walk through like any normal door, but next to that there’s the red carpet entrance - it’s roped off at the sides with braid supported on gold posts in true ... read more
Plaza Espana
The Kasbah
Entrance to the Kasbah Museum

Africa » Morocco » Tangier-Tétouan » Tangier July 21st 2023

Today we’ve got a long and messy day of travelling to Tangier in Morocco, via Malaga, where we’ve got several hours to kill while we wait for our late evening flight. The bus that we came on to Nerja stopped at every pretty coastal settlement along the route, and we‘re looking forward to again enjoying the excellent coastal scenery on the way back … and as an added bonus the trip will again be a long one, soaking up some of those hours we need to kill. But it seems Mr Murphy has again decided to intervene in our lives. The bus back is an express; there are no stops, so so much for the time we were looking to kill … and it doesn’t follow the coast so there’s no scenery to look at. I’m ... read more




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