Morocco - the sights, the sounds... the smells

Morocco has definitely been the most challenging place we´ve visited so far. Not the least being the extreme temperatures - during our time in Marrakech we were told that it was anything between 42º and 46º. Even the locals were complaining.

But it´s also very different from what we´re used to. Morocco is a Muslim country, so as guests, we were being constantly mindful of behaving respectfully - dressing modestly, not using our left hands for eating and dealing with others, being careful with our feet and not taking photos of people.

But the differences go beyond this. Moroccans are much more likely to want to bargain to agree a price than we ever would. And they are also more likely to treat tourists as walking money bags. Or perhaps I should say, they are more likely to be obvious about it. We had to work hard not to get cynical after having large amounts of money demanded of us for photos, or other unasked for attention, or taxi rides. The unsolicited guides and unasked for hand painting seemed to require ever increasing amounts of money. What we had to remind ourselves of was the genuinely helpful and friendly locals who had helped us when we were lost and not taken our offered tip, or welcomed us to Morocco without an expectation of further engagement.

Tangiers

D - Gateway to Africa. I'd been anticipating Morocco for some time. Well this was it. What met us was a large industrial port at dusk, lots of neon and a gamut of taxi drivers offering their services. We got amongst it on foot, and headed into the medina (old town, full of twisting and turning dark and intimidating pedestrian walkways). If we'd had a chance to consider this prospect I think we may have reconsidered. Too late. But within seconds, we were befriended by Ricardo, a local who offered to show us to our hostel. He also showed us (via a particularly circuitous route) to a restaurant, with typically inflated 'fresh off the boat' tourist prices. Then back, taking 20 minutes, which the next day only took us 5 minutes randomly wandering. Of course, he charged us hansomely for his services (by our reckoning there mut be more tour guides per capita in Morocco than in any other supposedly western country).

Approached and accosted by children at every turn was quite tiring, but this was a friendly introduction to the hassle we were to come across in Marrakech. Possibly you get used to it over time, like the heat and the smells, but very trying all the same.

Tangier was just a stop-over, our journey taking us onto the sleeper train to Marrakech. This was another unknown entity, as on every sleeper journey we had been on so far, we had been the only occupants. We had two Moroccan men sharing with us, one a businessman several years older than us and doing his best to upset the attendant by shouting at him aggressively in our compartment. The other, an elderly gentleman traditionally dressed. How do you behave? Especially Abbie? We are aware of the left hand right hand rules, but sleeping in the same room? What to wear? Naked feet or not naked feet? Somehow we didn't offend the entire Muslm world and arrived to the heat of Marrakech.

Marrakech

Ab - I´m afraid to say that because it was so hot, we didn´t see as much of Marrakech as we would have liked, and instead spent a lot of time hiding in our air conditioned room waiting for the temperature to drop.

We did visit Djemaa el Fna, the main square and focus of activity in Marrakech. By day, it is busy with stalls selling orange juice, and snake charmers and handpainters. As it moves towards evening, the number of snake charmers, hand painters, games and other chancers double and the square fills with stalls selling all manner of local food. Including sheeps head. Daren reckons he would have eaten one if he hadn´t had a stomach bug (?).

It is also from here that you can reach the winding alleys of the Medina and all the different souks (markets). We spent plenty of time wandering through these, but without room in our backpacks for souvenirs we didn´t indulge.

The High Atlas

We did manage to do a day trip to the High Atlas mountains, and Ouzazate, a town right up in the mountains. We were lucky enough to be on the tour with a great couple from Derby, Kev and Cas. Talking to them made the four hour journey to Ouzazate pass very quickly. Though nothing could entirely take our mind off the road which climbed to over 2000 metres and which frequently perched precariously hundreds of metres above valleys with sheer drops one side, or on one occasion, both. The scenery was absolutely incredible, which our photos just don´t do justice to. Huge barren mountains, with a few scrubby bushes, flat topped hills in vibrant reds, terraced hillsides with gardens, green valleys, deserts and more. We passed through many different landscapes on the trip.

We stopped in one small town at the base of a hill with a ruined Kasbah (castle) at the top - which was good for a leg stretch and few photos. Then into Ouzazate for lunch, and time only to wander around the Kasbah, take loads more photos, and back on the road to Marrakech.

We're now in Granada, shortly to be heading east along the Meditteranean coast towards France. Love to all, Dal & Ab xxx

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