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Background: In 788, about a century after the Arab conquest of North Africa, successive Moorish dynasties began to rule in Morocco. In the 16th century, the Sa'adi monarchy, particularly under Ahmad AL-MANSUR (1578-1603), repelled foreign invaders and inaugurated a golden age. In 1860, Spain occupied northern Morocco and ushered in a half century of trade rivalry among European powers that saw Morocco's sovereignty steadily eroded; in 1912, the French imposed a protectorate over the country. A protracted independence struggle with France ended successfully in 1956. The internationalized city of Tangier and most Spanish possessions were turned over to the new country that same year. Morocco virtually annexed Western Sahara during the late 1970s, but final resolution on the status of the territory remains unresolved. Gradual political reforms in the 1990s resulted in the establishment of a bicameral legislature in 1997. Parliamentary elections were held for the second time in September 2002 and municipal elections were held in September 2003.




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By JC44
February 15th 2008
Keep Away Africa » Morocco » Rabat-Salé-Zemmour-Zaer » Rabat
I went to the hammam for the first time last week. This is like the public bathhouse (though it's not quite that: less adornment, more implied luxury), where, if you are the typical Moroccan, you go once a week to clean yourself. Separate ones for men and women, of course. The one my brother, Abbas, and my little brother, Omar, took me to was a few blocks from our house; you got in, as you get into most places worth getting into here (you'd never find it without Moroccan brothers, that is), through an unmarked door several feet below ground level. [View Full Entry]

JC44 - Josh Cohen | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
771 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: February 15th 2008 | 51 Views | [diary=246525]


By JC44
February 15th 2008
Made-Up Africa » Morocco » Rabat-Salé-Zemmour-Zaer » Rabat
A few days after the hammam, Yamine, who is Michael's 30-something brother, who is the only one of his four brothers not to emigrate to Europe, who lives in a narrow tower of a three-story house with his parents, both of whom are bedridden with diabetes, took us--me, Michael, and a guy on my trip from Botswana, Leungo, who goes to Williams--to a sheesha bar. You found this bar (of course?) through an unmarked door right there on Mohammed V, the main avenue, two flights up, to the left (not the right: that's something else, which we weren't allowed to know [View Full Entry]

JC44 - Josh Cohen | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: February 15th 2008 | 54 Views | [diary=246540]


As I write this I am watching television with a woman who I don't know who she is. The Ninja Turtles (of course?) are on. Ninja, ninja, she says to me. How else do I respond: turtle? Now, she is watching a daft punk music video (I've never actually seen this video, they do a lot here I stopped doing a long time ago, like Super Mario and drinking milk, though I have taken shots to its beat at school). I don't understand. She looks really interested. I just figured out from her explanation that she is a teacher at the [View Full Entry]

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Published: February 15th 2008 | 63 Views | [diary=246548]


I was playing with Reda in the indoor-outdoor courtyard in our house yesterday. I'm not sure I know how to describe what went down. First, though, let me describe what happened immediately preceding that with my sister (who is turning 21 the same day as me, as in we were born the same day in world history; as in, as my mother here put it, there will be food and joy from wall to wall). She is the sister who attends Mohammed V University, majors in English, has a tantalizingly beautiful 5 month old baby (I haven't had the balls for [View Full Entry]

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Published: February 15th 2008 | 48 Views | [diary=246562]


"Twinkling" is an "American situation". That is, according to this guy, Shafie, who I am teaching Spanish in exchange for Arabic and French, and who occasionally tells me with the sincerest most curious smile to read the Qu'ran ("it will improve you"...just by reading it; this, I think, is a distinctive Muslim belief [good for illiterate peoples, by the way, which Mohammed was, or people who don't speak Arabic, which most Muslims don't]...that is, that it can almost physically change you without your understanding it), who works at L' Hotel Majestic, where we stayed the first week, and who eat [View Full Entry]

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Published: February 11th 2008 | 52 Views | [diary=245206]


The first weekend with the family, the Blidis. Three brothers: 17, 11, 6; a sister, 20, who has a daughter, 5 mos, which daughter lives with us, though the sister does not (she lives with her much older husband, who is very protective of her, though never touches her...though she is an English major my year at Mohammed V university and does not wear the veil or anything, and would hate to have lived, like, 20 years ago. I guess me too). The 17 year-old brother and the sister are the only ones who really speak English, so the 17 year-old [View Full Entry]

JC44 - Josh Cohen | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: February 11th 2008 | 64 Views | [diary=245128]


I went to a bar last night. Legally, no alcohol can be served to Muslims, which I'm still not sure who, or why, that law appeases (since they drink, if they want, though many who you think would don't). Laws made to be broken, etc.--no that's facile...the thing worth telling here is that we met two Moroccan guys who brought us to this bar and after, when we were paying, I had a big bill; I was collecting smaller bills; I messed up the math, of course, wasn't paying attention, didn't give them their right change..and they became immediately upset. But [View Full Entry]

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Published: February 8th 2008 | 59 Views | [diary=244150]


There are several students on my trip who are the children of people in foreign service--diplomats, the army. An e.g.: Alex spent two years in Cote D'Voire; two in Turkey; two in London; two in Bethesda, MD. Speaks three languages. Belongs nowhere, sort of. Can you really say this isn't for everyone? It produces a helluva person, at least. [View Full Entry]

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Published: February 8th 2008 | 45 Views | [diary=244151]


I miss feeling the presence of women. I don't even think I mean sexually. I mean being able to form myself in response to them. (Blogging makes you write too fast, so I am amending this sentence). The thing about this nearly visible, literally written (but also tacit) distinction between public/private is that it forces you to organize your life into two categories. It is tempting, this sort of dualism, I said I liked it earlier, and I do, but thinking about it this way makes it a problem. Given the choice of public or private, the tendency, I think, is [View Full Entry]

JC44 - Josh Cohen | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
355 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: February 8th 2008 | 69 Views | [diary=244153]


By JC44
February 8th 2008
Dolly Parton Africa » Morocco » Rabat-Salé-Zemmour-Zaer » Rabat
Comes on every night in the old medina at 8 pm. I have not heard "jugs" in a long time. Some regression is blissful. Not Dally Partion, I mean. Jugs. Why do they like her here? You can't say it takes time for culture to travel anymore, can you? Can I use this: "She was good American."? [View Full Entry]

JC44 - Josh Cohen | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
56 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: February 8th 2008 | 64 Views | [diary=244199]