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Rabat-Salé-Zemmour-Zaer Travel Blogs

Background: In 788, about a century after the Arab conquest of North Africa, successive Moorish dynasties began to rule in Morocco. In the 16th century, the Sa'adi monarchy, particularly under Ahmad AL-MANSUR (1578-1603), repelled foreign invaders and inaugurated a golden age. In 1860, Spain occupied northern Morocco and ushered in a half century of trade rivalry among European powers that saw Morocco's sovereignty steadily eroded; in 1912, the French imposed a protectorate over the country. A protracted independence struggle with France ended successfully in 1956. The internationalized city of Tangier and most Spanish possessions were turned over to the new country that same year. Morocco virtually annexed Western Sahara during the late 1970s, but final resolution on the status of the territory remains unresolved. Gradual political reforms in the 1990s resulted in the establishment of a bicameral legislature in 1997. Parliamentary elections were held for the second time in September 2002 and municipal elections were held in September 2003.




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Me and my friend, Sarah, who is half-Iranian, half-Louisianan, and socially Ba’hai, had been talking about going to synagogue in Rabat since we got here. On Sarah, briefly, superficially: her father, who she says looks like George Clooney when he (her dad) doesn’t shave, fled Iran because he was Ba’hai at the onset of the Revolution, she says, and the Ba'hai save the Jews from persecution In Iran (she says), and now Sarah is a Republican from West Virginia who goes to Barnard, who is dating the sort of Jewish man (from Columbia) who since he has been dating her has [View Full Entry]

JC44 - Josh Cohen | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: March 16th 2008 | 318 Views | [diary=256737]


Before I write about this past weekend, about women, woman, dead dogs, and "saints", I need to write about this. There are protests on avenue Mohammed V nearly every day. They're pretty pro forma, which is not to say that the men and women protesting aren't serious, or that they don't badly need the attention, but, simply, if you live in Rabat you see a protest almost every day. Usually, you hear the protests before you see them, because no matter how many protesters there are they sing as long as they are standing, and it travels, the singing, in a [View Full Entry]

JC44 - Josh Cohen | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: March 11th 2008 | 87 Views | [diary=255120]


On Friday night, we (our friend, Sheffia, who works at the L’Hotel Majestic, which we stayed at our first week; Michael, from Minnesota; Leungo, from Botswana and Williams college; Jude, who writes for al-Jazeera and is from the south of England; and Sheffia’s two friends, Jawad and Sufyan, the former the owner of the “beach house” for which we were destined) went to Mohammedia, a small city just next door to Rabat, which is known as “the city of flowers and sports”. If this sounds like a traditional romantic nickname for a charming suburban hamlet, it isn&r [View Full Entry]

JC44 - Josh Cohen | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: March 2nd 2008 | 90 Views | [diary=251940]


Thank god for Imodium. Today we decided to "do" Rabat so that tomorrow we can move on. We got up pretty early due in part to the day spent in bed and in part to the massive hole in the roof which lets in a lot of light. Our first port of call was to walk to the Kasbah of which I had good expectations but was actually pretty disappointed. It was pretty grotty in comparison to most others and pretty insignificant. On the other side of the Kasbah there was a view point where you could look across at either [View Full Entry]

Steph and Rob - Steph Duke, Rob Cridland | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
898 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 37 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: March 5th 2008 | 95 Views | [diary=253120]

Kasbah Wall
Breakwater
Beach

When I woke up this morning my tummy was making way too much noise to be good. We made it to our new hotel Centre when I was really ill in a way that eerily echoed the beginning of Rob's illness last time. At first I thought it would be brief and that a look around Rabat would be feasible, but I kept on being sick and decided that bed was my safest option. Luckily for me being ill so soon after last time had diminished my energy supplies so I Managed to doze throughout the day. Rob ran out to [View Full Entry]

Steph and Rob - Steph Duke, Rob Cridland | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: March 5th 2008 | 105 Views | [diary=253118]


By JC44
February 29th 2008
Dumb Bards Africa » Morocco » Rabat-Salé-Zemmour-Zaer » Rabat
Steph, I already told you this but—finally, my brothers and me are speaking gibberish. When I come home, if it is Omar and Reda who opens the door, we grunt and mumble at one another in an imitation of the ceremonial greetings adult Moroccans exchange. It is, I think, even more fun for them than it is for me. And then the other day Omar and me were taking a walk and he put his hood up and began to shadow box. Naturally, I hummed him the Rocky theme, which even if Omar has never seen the movie he recognized it…and [View Full Entry]

JC44 - Josh Cohen | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: February 29th 2008 | 45 Views | [diary=251380]


By JC44
February 29th 2008
Kulshee Hoot Africa » Morocco » Rabat-Salé-Zemmour-Zaer » Rabat
Said, my sister's husband, the one who is threatened by the possibility of being threatened by me, who works for the Moroccan ambassador, i.e. greets French-speaking important peoples at the airport, invited me and the two shlumpy midwesterners living with us to go to his hammam with him last night. The one he's been going to since he was old enough to walk. His mother's house is a stone's throw, and when he enters not only does everyone know him but the people who don't (know him) line up to introduce themselves to him. He has a personal man, smaller and [View Full Entry]

JC44 - Josh Cohen | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: February 29th 2008 | 110 Views | [diary=251389]


We managed a pretty decent morning start, but our efforts were thwarted by the lethargy of the hotel staff. We ordered a breakfast and sat around for ages waiting for them to eventually arrive with a basket of toasted baguette, butter and apricot jam. The best thing about breakfast was the OJ followed by mint tea. (Don’t think about the sugar content) We had a quick stop to say goodbye to Anthony as we almost certainly won't bump into him again; he is heading north for a ferry back to Spain. We wanted one last walk around the medina before we [View Full Entry]

Steph and Rob - Steph Duke, Rob Cridland | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
998 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 4 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: March 5th 2008 | 78 Views | [diary=253117]

Da
Ba
Dee

The other night Omar motioned for me to put down my book and get out of bed. Downstairs, he motioned for me to follow him to the door; he motioned for me to hurry up, y'allah; and then like that we were in the alley outside our home. Omar, putting a finger to his head, motioned for me to wait, went back inside, and returned in moments with a black umbrella. Then, like that, me, Omar, and Hal (a Wisconsonian who, along with Eric, a Minnesotan, is temporarily living with us, who clearly tagged along) were walking down Hassan II at [View Full Entry]

JC44 - Josh Cohen | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
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Published: February 20th 2008 | 46 Views | [diary=248333]


You're allowed--during off-prayer hours--to go into the Grand Mosque of Hassan II in Casablanca. We did that this Saturday. The Mosque is on a promontory jutting out over the Atlantic. It is one of the biggest in the world, etc. You walk across this dizzyingly wide and long courtyard, the kind that tilts, which courtyard is busy with (but not filled by) lots of children let loose and pairs of old people and pigeons (which pigeons are perched on the stadium lighting). A laser beam shines from the Minaret towards Mecca every night. There is an elevator in the minaret, which [View Full Entry]

JC44 - Josh Cohen | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1173 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 43 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: February 19th 2008 | 71 Views | [diary=247958]

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