Caravan to the Desert

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Last night, we ended up staying right near the Dades Gorge, but we did not get a chance to see much of it since we arrived at our auberge well after the sun had set (which was fantastic across all the pink and red earth). We did have a lovely evening with the rest of of clan and got to know a bit more about most of our companions from: India/London, Paris, Australia, Korea, Japan, Canada Hong Kong, China, Singapore and Barcelona. It was great, lingering over our tajines and talking well into the night in the only warm room in the auberge thanks to the fires that were lit.

The morning was not so pleasant, as it was chilly and difficult to get out of my camel blanket cocoon and step on the cold tile at 6 AM. But we had an itinerary to keep if we wanted to get to the Sahara that night, and with that exciting thought, the cold became (slightly more) bearable. We were rewarded with a quick breakfast, plenty of coffee, and the usual bread/condiments before being shuffled into our van.

Compared to our drive yesterday, today was less thrilling but definitely more interactive. We didn't really know what to expect as we drove out and passed some tiny towns, until we made our first real stop at the larger, comparatively bustling Tinghir. We got out of our van and were greeted by a guide who was to take us through the palmeraie (palm farm) and kasbah. The tour was really interesting; we learned about: how the water supply is irrigated and divided between the three towns that thrive off it, what is farmed in the area and the difference between male and female palm trees, what kind of olives are used for which purpose and how long it takes for a date tree to produce good dates, and a lot about the way land is passed down between families. It was really actually fascinating to be able to talk to someone who knew the small town customs and ways of life, even if he was someone who was in one way or another employed to take us around the area. Plus, the area was very beautiful. There's nothing like a Moroccan kasbah towering over a field of alfalfa and palm trees.

After our tour through the palmeraie, we got a tour through the kasbah. It was your usual tour that of course ended with some Berber carpet/tea time. We got to sit around in our little cozy room shoes off, as dozens of handloomed carpets were brought in. We heard tell about the symbolism of icons and colors, how the process of making a carpet begins and ends, how the dyes are made and harvested, etc. etc. It was very educational and neat to hear, but I didn't buy a carpet. My partner in crime, Keith, did. I'm actually very glad he did; in retrospect I wish I had too. Really, what is a 150 dollars for something that becomes such a beloved souvenir that is actually usable. IKEA carpets have nothing on Berber carpets.

Our next stop before making our way to our final stop (the Sahara) was the Todra Gorge. After one of the best lunches in the most relaxing restaurants, we set off to explore the gorge. It was beautiful, colorful, serene, and of course slightly overrun by tourism's marks. For the forty-five minutes that we wandered around coral-colored rocks framed by the deep blue sky and the lazy stream snaking through the rim of the gorge, we enjoyed taking pictures, haggling with the vendors that set up shop along the rocks, and getting to know our fellow travelers. Despite being in a van together for our many hours of car travel, it's usually only when we get out of the van that we get to talk to everyone since Keith and I have been sitting up front with our driver.

We finally set out on our final leg for the desert in the late afternoon. It was a highly anticipated departure, and as we made our way further and further east the towns grew smaller, the dress more conservative and uniform, and the sightings of tiny sands dune brought on an eagerness that would refresh any war-worn soldier. When we finally saw the Sahara, rising out of the earth suddenly and without notice, we were floored. It was as if someone just set down a sea of sand in the middle of the barren plains of Morocco. Merzouga was the sentry, guarding the sand wall with a diligence that gave it an air of importance, as well as insignificance set against the dunes. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Even though we did ride our camels out into the desolate Sahara tonight, I'm going to pack the whole "I slept in the Sahara desert beneath a visible galaxy of stars with belching camels" for the next entry. So for now, I'll leave with a few pictoral glimpses of the Sahara in the setting sun, just like in the movies. Stay tuned for the sequel, which unlike the movies, will be just as fantastic as the first.

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