High Sand Dunes at Merzouga's Desert


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Africa » Morocco » Meknès-Tafilalet » Merzouga
January 8th 2008
Published: January 8th 2008
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I like to think I got to the Sahara! Well, I'm not a long way from it. Erg Chebbi has plenty to offer and is much more than just an intro to the desert experience: beautiful fine golden sand, the highest dunes in Morocco, friendly accommodation...

It was worth it delaying my trip from Todra to come to Merzouga with Rosa, Jorge and Abdul. After getting my bike's wheels stuck on the track and splitting from the group going back to the tarmac road, we met again at a crossroads and spent the eve with the black musicians in a very welcoming community of Sudanese ex-slaves. Their music is so strong, with repetitive verses like a mantra which made me feel a bit drugged, in a trance. We had hardly eaten anything during the day and were starving when food was served. The spicy meat and veg tagine was avidly shared and quickly voted the best meal in Morocco.

After walking around and chatting under the stars we slept out in the jaimas, nomad's tents on sand dunes. Rosa managed to see many shooting stars I somehow missed. Then we were awakened by roosters and donkeys every hour in the night. We got up at six and walked up the grand dune to see the sun coming up, a wonderful desert experience. We had breakfast back in the Pigeon du Sable community, went to see the lake where lots of flamingos sometimes gather and Rosa, Jorge and Abdul carried on their trip westwards.

I absolutely love it here. There's no getting tired of seeing the sun and shades messing about on the dunes and witnessing the wind moving the golden sand, carving huge valleys, creating round vast holes between dunes, modeling sensuous curvy crests; the wind healing the wounds we inflict on the perfectly patterned surface with our boots as we walk.

I am daunted by the variety of animals' footprints that can be seen on the sand in the morning: small rodents, foxes, insects, birds... however, barely any life can be seen during the day apart from the odd beetle. I was intrigued by a clear pattern of rodent footprints that had suddenly been interrupted, varnishing from a point in the middle of two small dunes, only to find later the footprints of birds up the highest dunes and marks on the sand which indicated a meal had taken place there.

I exhaust myself walking up steep dunes and sliding down on a snowboard, but that's good fun. I had a great time on a camel ride through the dunes, the camel being conducted by Sahid on foot. My eyes feasting on the scenery: the sun on Sahid's tunic and turban, the camel's large head and pale beige fur, the stunning blue sky contrasting with the sand dunes' golden edges...

I look at the bright stars at night. I wake up when it is dark to walk up and down the dunes at sunrise. I do it again at sunset. I repeat it over and over, hoping I will never forget what it feels like to be here and to do so.


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Pigeons du SablePigeons du Sable
Pigeons du Sable

The musicians in the welcoming community of Sudanese ex-slaves


18th January 2008

Hey
Ummm, wow! Where do you meet all these fascinating people! And how are you conversing with them? I'll bet your French has improved :)
23rd January 2008

Nice pics ;-) Any news? I hope u dont like it too much and decide to become a beduine!! :-0
24th January 2008

marvelous
Everything is so gorgeous! I want to go and ride the camel with you and have the meal and all the great adventures! Well done lovely brother. Fantastic pictures. Lot's of love, big cuddle.
26th January 2008

UAU...
Ze, estou estupefata, boquiaberta, maravilhada com suas fotos, sua viagem, comentarios e tudo... Onde voce esta agora?? Saudade, vontade de conversar de ve-lo. Fique bem, amigo. Beijo com amor, Lessa

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