From Marrakech to Tinerhir Through the Beautiful Atlas Mountains

How busy and lively is Marrakech! The new part of the city has well planed streets, gardens and monumental buildings. In the old medina the traffic is as caotic as it gets with locals and tourists disputing space with bicycles, cars and scooters sounding their horns at all times plus stalls, street vendors and snake charmers competing to draw people's attention!

In the evenings the air in the main square is filled with steam and all sorts of frying and cooking smells as the food stalls get really busy. I saw a man washing dishes in a barrel the first night and promised myself I would not eat there, but I did not resist the tempting smell of fried squids and aubergines the second night. The food was surprisingly good!

I wondered on my own for a few days through narrow, unpaved streets dodging the traffic, saying 'non mercy' to all sorts of offers. I had so far been glad I had managed december without the usual Christmas fuss but on the 24th I missed the glitter, the carols and observing the cold day outside the window of Alex's cozy kitchen as we prepared last year's Christmas lunch together.

On the 24th my Canadian friends Kris and Lawrence made my Moroccan Christmas unforgettable. We met in the main square and after coffee and catching up with each other's news we had a most delicious dinner with wine and all in Marrakech's most atmospheric restaurant. What a privilege! I hope I can return the courtesy in London, Rio or wherever we meet next time!

I left Marrakech early on boxing day and made my way to Quarzazarte through Tichka pass on the High Atlas Mountains. Stopping every so often to enjoy the mountain views from the valley and the cool air up in the pass, I had late breakfast at the cafe opposite the refuge and carried on through Vallee du Dades, only getting to Tinerhir when the sun was setting behind the oasis palm trees.

A very pleasant trip which took me to the quintessential climbing destination in Morocco. I felt my luck had turned and I was ready to relax and enjoy the rest of my trip in this country.

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