Natarsha 's Ponderings On The Fes Medina

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Moroccos flagPublished: February 6th 2012Africa » Morocco » Fès-Boulemane » Fes
February 6th 2012

Fes – The Medina (Tarsh)

Lonely Planet describes the Medina of Fes as being an attack on the senses, and this is no exaggeration. Its intricacies of its layout are unfathomable. The source of its mystery and charm. The streets are dizzying with narrow, empty lanes dissolving into boulevards lined with markets bursting with colours and smells. Mosaic fountains introduce hidden mosques; stalls selling cashmere scarves or fine pottery are nestled in between butchers displaying heads of camels or bulls; decadent restaurants neighbour dingy coffee shops accommodating leering men lost among the clouds of smoke. Our attitudes towards tackling this maze of towering, honey-coloured walls fluctuate continuously throughout the day. We begin perhaps a little arrogant (considering ourselves seasoned travellers and all) but this arrogance quickly dissipates and we become completely overwhelmed. We almost cower through the streets, feeling both awed and apprehensive. But with familiarity comes (perhaps a false) confidence and we are soon bouncing through like locals, joking with the unrelenting shopkeepers and laughing at the overly-friendly remarks which once taunted us. What was once completely overwhelming becomes seductive and enigmatic. The medina is dream-like, something of another world. I still imagine that when I enter, I won’t ever come back.

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In 788, about a century after the Arab conquest of North Africa, successive Moorish dynasties began to rule in Morocco. In the 16th century, the Sa'adi monarchy, particularly under Ahmad AL-MANSUR (1578-1603), repelled foreign invaders and inaugurate...more info

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