Lake Malawi

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En route to Lake Malawi, we set up camp next to Ruaha River, which is pleasant scene (albeit we have to be careful with scorpions which are rife in the area). We have a couple of beers at a nearby bar where I chat with a former Zimbabwean Farmer; he was one of the first to be forced out by Mugabe's henchmen (i.e. by shooting his neighbours and then giving him the option to leave without any form of compensation). Some of the stories are quite frightening and disheartening of how Zimbabwe has now become. There are some positive signs ahead though; Zambia went through a similar uprising a number of years ago where the predominantly white farmers were removed and those that then occupied the land didn't have the skills to farm. Zambia then became a very poor country and was a food crisis country for a number of years; however, 29 farming families were brought in from Zimbabwe to reignited the farming industry, being financed by the World Bank; within 5 years Zambia began exporting food! (I've checked this story with a few people all of who have confirmed it is correct). The one thing I have been so surprised at is how green and fertile all the land has been (admittedly it is the start of the rainy season but our guides are convinced that Africa can feed itself and most of the world if proper agricultural systems were in place).

The following day, we stay at Kisolanza farm where I upgrade for a little bit of luxury!...and which allows me time to finally do some washing! We have a fantastic dinner made by the locals in a converted barn by candlelight; it's a roast dinner of sorts and is by far the best food I've had so far. Everybody is in great spirits (most have been ill at some point but now we are accustomed to the conditions). We finish off the night with the usual couple of beers underneath a thatched hut and warmed by some charcoaled clay pots (we are high in the hills so the evenings have been chilly).

After camping one night at Chitimba beach, we stay for three nights at Kande Beach aside Lake Malawi (I upgrade again to a shack next to the beach; not in the spirit of the trip but many others also upgrade and its definitely worth it!) I even catch the Man Utd v Liv game (and have to carry out kitchen duties for the next two days as I lost my bet with Emma - a Man Utd fan in our group). I head out on a local village tour with the locals and a three of our group; this was very cheap but very insightful. We are invited into one of the locals houses where he discusses how he lives and village operates; not the most pleasant of surroundings but it is again quite apparent how happy the locals are to live in such conditions. We then go to the local school which is a hectic place; we are invited into one of the classes and are mobbed by arounf 50 kids! The headtecher also meets us and talks through some of the pressures they operate under (for exmaple, it's an avergae of 120 kids to one teacher - and this is considered to be one of the better schools!) We leave some gifts and some donations then head to the hospital. This is not a hospital as we see back home - merely one building with one doctor and one nurse; out visit is on a Monday and is extremely busy (it's closed on weekends); being predominated by mothers and their small children which is a saddening sight. The doctor meets us and talks through some of the pressures; malria and HIV/ aids being the biggest problems and also the lack of supplies. We donate some mosquito nets but it's apparent that its not enough for what they need.

Later in the afternoon, I go horse riding. This is an unnerving experience, particularly as I have the biggest horse which bolts as soon as I get on when it is startled by a monkey! It then decided that it wants to gallop as soon as the gate is opened! Despite this, I really enjoy the ride as we head through some local villages and is then finished off with bareback riding in Lake Malawi; a great experience near sunset. The horses appear to enjoy the Lake more than us and even swim in the Lake! Again, there are some great photos which I will upload some time soon.

Later that evening, Barry (one of our guides) talks through some of problems associated with corruption in Africa; this being what he believes to be the biggest problem in Africa. He tells us how he once drove one of three trucks to the Congo to deliver 6 tonnes of medical aid but we not allowed in as they had to pay a tax to the local politician (i.e. a bribe); they couldn't pay the 'tax' and the aid was then incinerated! He also says that recently 250 million rand disappeared from a South Africa provinces account - and this is not uncommon! He tells of an America aid agency which half built a school sand left the remaining supplies for the locals to finish off; however, the reverend of the local church took the supplies and built himself a house! He also once delivered emergency maize aid supplies but was ordered to deliver it to a governers house who then began selling it to the locals! All very disheartening and the scary thing is that Bary believes South Africa is slowly heading the same way as Zimbabwe.

We camp a couple more nights - one at an isolated place where we have the biggest rainfall I have ever seen (not the greatest experience when camping!) and one near Lusaka, the capital of Zambia) before heading for Victoria Falls; this being where I am writing this blog update aside the mighty Zambezi River. Our other guide, Julias, says it's the highest he has ever seen it so it should make for a great sight of the falls (we can see a great cloud of mist in the distance). I'm doing three bungee jumps this afternoon and a microlight over the falls tomorrow, so wish me well!

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