Malawi - the warm heart of Africa

The journey across Tanzania is long - 13 hours on the first day to Iringa alone; Vijay and Bernard shared the driving but must have been knackered ‘cos we were!

One night at Kisolanza, a “rustic campsite” ie no electricity! in Iringa. Great place - lovely bar room with a central stove and African décor. And nice loo’s too - you get to be quite focussed on this after 3 weeks on the road!

The vegetation and landscape changes as we head across country; from lush and tropical to scrub and bush and very dry, then hills and more greenery and more cultivation - sunflowers, hydreangeas and sweetcorn. Also saw tea plantations and a tea picking team at work. First time M had seen this despite his years in India. The village settlements seem bigger too with more brick built houses (made in their own village kilns) - not sure if these are more affluent areas. Colours change too; the women wear more greens and yellows.

And at last we reach Malawi at the Songwe river crossing. Going through immigration some of the guys get turned back for wearing vest tops! Lots of swapping of T shirts to get through. No problem for the women though!

Malawi is said to be one of the top 10 poorest countries in the world but with the most generous and friendly people. English is commonly spoken and many will come and talk as you walk.

Again the vegetation changes; hills are terraced and generally the land is more cultivated. The main crops are cassava (used to make nsima a bit like ugali) and sweet potato. Pass some coal mines - they export to Europe!

We camp for 4 nights on Lake Malawi; 1 night in Chitimba and 3 at Chintheche. The Lake is huge - 700 kms long and looks like a sea.

Weather a mix of rain and sunshine and not too hot so lovely - except for the bugs!! They have thousands!!! And most are ugly and big. Oh, and lots of mossies so 100% deet is plastered on C; trying to weigh up the pro’s and con’s of applying toxic waste to the skin or getting bitten to death!!

Visited a witchdoctor in a local village. Did a bit of dancing with him (loose term) and had explanations of his potions and work. This is a real and important part of the rural scene. Most of the time spent taking photo’s of the local kids though and showing them the result, which they love (even the grown ups) - the wonders of digital cameras. Many give their names and addresses so that you can write to them and send copies of the pictures.

Sean (Aussie on his honeymoon, with Becks) organised a quiz night. Great fun though the team from the other truck won & the jackpot (entry $1 per person) - damn.

Woken in the early hours by lots of shouting and singing; apparently the fishermen (who go out at night) had a good catch so were celebrating. They continue celebrating the following day with the local brew. Apparently half a mug full would knock you out!

Met a couple of local guys walking along the beach who explained the local way of life in Malawi. They were students selling artwork and wood carvings etc to fund their secondary education - this seems quite common. A lot of foreigners are buying the land around the Lake as it’s so cheap. Fishing boats are like little dug out canoes crafted from a single tree trunk. The wood carvings are beautiful - we’d love to buy some but can’t fit them in the rucksacks; may resort to shipping something home if we get really tempted.

Sunset is lovely; all the fishing boats go out and all you can see at night is the brilliant stars in the sky and lights on the lake from the fishermen’s boats.
Also, get a view of an awesome sunrise at 6.00am over the lake from our tent; fiery red and reflected in the lake. Unfortunately the camera is locked in the truck!! Promised ourselves to be more prepared in future.

The site at Chintheche is in the grounds of a hotel - lovely grounds and a restaurant! Get tempted for dinner (and lunch the next day) - locally caught fresh fish. M has his grilled while mine is baked in ginger, garlic, white wine and herbs; both fantastic. Lovely white moist fish called a chambo. We go with Troy and Tiana (couple from Oz, north of Sydney; used to live in Acton) and Ruth; all of us keen to avoid the fancy dress and punch party! We join the party afterwards - some amazing costumes. Matt (NZ ex army looks fab in his mini skirt and glitter decorated blouse. Great pins!!) Mainly the guys from the other truck and great fun; have a few comments from people saying they couldn’t see their parents doing what we are!

The other thing the hotel does is make cakes; 10 of us club together to buy a whole chocolate cake and a ricotta cheesecake with mango coulis. Delish! We have afternoon tea on the lawn.

Basically two whole days of lazing around; swimming in the lake, thinking about going for a cycle ride (too hot) and eating! We’ll need it as the next three days are on the road across Malawi and Zambia. Breakfast at 5.15am so early to rise at 4.30am … back on the road again.

---

---