Funerals in Ghana: homecoming/party/kegger/dance/concert/fair

Over the past two weeks, I would say a significant part of my free time has been devoted to funerals - both in attendance and preparation. More specifically, I attended the funeral of the mother of one of our teachers and also the state funeral of the finance minister (who was from Agogo) who died in September. As you will soon learn, these funeral experiences have little to nothing in common with funerals that I have experienced in Canada - besides maybe wearing the dark clothing.

Appropriate attire is very important during a mourning period. And since Rabina and I had a very long mourning period to take part in, we had to get dresses made to have enough clothing to wear to these events. Mourning cloth is either black, dark brown or red and is styled generally in a typical Ghanaian dress. I chose a simple black fabric with a dark brown pattern and planned to have a simple straight dress made - something that I could eventually wear back in Canada.

SIDE NOTE: getting clothing made should be a relatively easy affair since this is how the majority of people get their clothes. However, I think I happened to choose the most inept seamstress in all of town. (She just happens to be the one right across from our place.) I should have figured it out after I had my first dress made - which took seven attempts - that I would be in for the same ordeal the next time round. This second chance did not work out! At least it only took 4 tries this time. I am currently looking for a new seamstress.

Anyway, wearing my dress (not exactly what I wanted - but close enough) and a respectful head wrap, we were on our way to the first of the funerals. One of our teacher’s at APTC mother died and the school sent a van filled with teachers to represent the school at the funeral. So we started off an hour and a half later than originally scheduled (Canada time) but right on time if I consider it is Africa! It was a three and half hour road trip with the teachers that I can only try to begin to describe. We stopped many times to buy food to eat and general weekly supplies. We also stopped for a pee break - which back home would mean at rest stop or fast food joint. Here in Ghana a pee break is at the side of the road and every pees right beside the van. (There is a little bit different concept of privacy when it comes to such bodily functions.) The last hour was spent bouncing down a terrible dirt road in the middle of rural Ghana with African tall grass on either side and no one in sight. It can only be described as a scene out of “the gods must be crazy’!

Well we finally arrived and were warmly welcomed by the family who gave us a meal because of our long travels. We then went to the funeral grounds which is a series of black and red tents with chairs underneath them for us to sit - and to be accosted by all the people who are selling goods! (Mentos and handkerchiefs seem to be a big seller at funerals.) We then collected money as a group and donated it to the family. I wasn’t really sure what was going on since the speaker was talking in Twi - but it definitely was not a solemn service due to the music and beers that were being served. The amount we had given was announced by the speaker and then the family walked around to thank us. In just under an hour we were back on the road again to head home. Seven hours of driving for less than an hour of funeral. (Have they heard of the gas prices these days!) Our road trip continued and I was dropped off in Agogo with a loaf of bread and a bottle of coke (none which I actually bought myself) and fell into bed ready to start again the next day with the finance minister’s three day funeral event!

Agogo has spent ages getting ready for this event. New light bulbs were put in street lights, the curbs were painted white, the tree trunk bases were painted white (for beautification we are told), the funeral grounds were leveled, the area was weeded, the garbage was collected, tents and chairs were set up, and mini restaurants and bars appeared out of nowhere. All in all, Agogo is looking pretty good! It is interesting how in Ghana no one thinks twice about stopping school and all the children must weed and clean the school grounds and other parts of the community. I would estimate they missed aobut a full day and a half total that week cleaning.

How to describe what I can only call an event. It was a three day affair that felt more like a homecoming/party/kegger/dance/concert/fair. The town was filled with people - many came from all over Ghana for the funeral. It began with the procession of the body into town. People lined the street crying and waving as the body was driven in with a police escort. What Ghanaians call the "wake" we would call a keg party. Just down the road from where we are staying a bunch of tents were set up, a band was put into place and a slew of large kegs were delivered and placed beside the roadside bbqs. I think I like the way Ghanaians mourn the loss of their finance minister! While I was in bed much earlier, the music continued (very loudly) until about 5 am. We discovered .llater why it stopped then: it was because that was when the viewing of the body began at the funeral grounds.

We didn't arrive until after 9am to go and view the body - which was an event in itself. The line up to the funeral grounds was massive and we were told their were couple hour long waits to actually see teh body. While I didn't really care if I saw him or not. But our Ghanaian friend Rosina really wanted to see the body. So she decided to use our "Obruni" status and push through the line and talk to the security. Within 10 min we had jumped the queue and had seen the body and were back where we started.

Later on in the day the most important of guests arrived: the president of Ghana. We were there to witness the entire affair and were probably within 50 feet of him by our placement in the crowd. Unfortunately due to the number of people and our viewing angle we actually didn't get to see him. At least I can say I was in his presence.

Anyway, the rest of the weekend was spent hanging out with friends and odd forays into the funeral grounds. I must mention some of the memorabilia that could be purchased around town due to the funeral: specific funeral cloth with the minister's head on it (many people purchased and made clothing out of it), calendars, bottle openers, fans, bracelets and necklaces, books, etc... All with the minister's head pasted on to the sourvenir.

All in all it was a very good weekend. Very unique to say the least. I think we have something to learn from Ghanaians about how death should be viewed. It was very much a celebration of life - a healthier way to view death, i think.

Well, that is all I have to say for now. Look forward to hearing from all of you. Till later

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Part of trip: My African Adventure

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