KUMASI

The trip to Kumasi was very interesting. First we decided to take a bus rather than drive, since the car had given us some problems on the way back from Cape Coast. But just our luck we chose to take the STC (state transport) and it turns out the bus we got was cursed! I am still trying to figure out how a trip (Accra to Kumasi) that was only supposed to take four hours ends up taking eight! I have never in my life experienced such a thing. The bus was stopped twice - the first we broke down in this small town somewhere and ended up waiting around for about an hour while the bus driver (and some passengers) ran around the town trying to find a mechanic. Then they returned and another 30mins was spent fixing the problem. So that was 1.5hrs wasted. On the second occasion we were held up behind other vehicles in some very strange traffic jam on a road in the middle of nowhere. For 30 whole minutes the bus did not move. Finally the driver took the initiative to pull out and drive along the side of the road, but as soon as he did this we realized that it wasn’t even a traffic jam after all, just that the driver ahead of us had fallen asleep behind his wheel! Don’t ask how it was that no-one figured this out - long story (but part of it is that he was driving a huge tanker type vehicle, so it was impossible to see over him). So that was another 30mins wasted added onto the previous 1.5hrs. But still that only accounts for 2hrs of the extra 4hrs that it took the bus to get there. We left Accra at 9:30am and arrived in Kumasi at 5:30pm!! - No-one absolutely no-one I have spoken to since can believe that a trip from Accra to Kumasi would take that long - it just doesn’t happen.


So needless to say I was in an extremely bad mood by the time we arrived in Kumasi (but things would only get worse for me that evening). The plan had been for us to arrive there at 1:30pm, go to my grandma’s place, and then spend the afternoon visiting some tourist sites. After that I was supposed to go meet up with my friend at the UST campus (one of my best friends from high school who I hadn’t seen in about 7 yrs) and spend the night with her. But already a part of the plan was ruined by our late arrival. We would not be able to do any sight-seeing; it would have to be pushed to the next day. Then we arrived at my grandma’s only to learn that there was a blackout (oh great!). I was feeling so down, but cheered at the fact that I would soon be going to see my friend and was getting anxious to leave. But of course we had to eat first; my grandma was already busy preparing us a meal, there’s no way she would have allowed me to leave while she was cooking. Now when I say grandma, I am referring to my Grandmother’s younger sister , though in Ghana she is equally considered to be my grandmother. But she makes for a rather cool one, because for a grandma (of people in their twenties), she’s actually quite young; late forties. I also have a “Grandpa” who’s even younger than she (but never mind how - my family is just complicated like that). So I have to wait till after we have eaten, but meanwhile my uncle (who brought me to Kumasi and had earlier agreed that it would be a good idea for me to spend the night at my friend’s (so we’d have more time to catch up) tells me to call my friend to start getting details about how and where to meet her.


After dinner I am all set and ready to leave. I call my friend so that she can speak to my uncle and give him directions. My grandma hears their conversation and realizes that I am intending to go somewhere that evening. Now if there is anything I have learnt about my family in Ghana it is that they are highly protective and this grandma is no exception. Arguing that it was way too late (7pm that is) and that Kumasi is much too dangerous, she instantly puts a halt to my plans. She says that if I must go at all, then I should wait until the next day to see my friend. But we are leaving Kumasi the next day and given how tight our schedule is already, I knew I would be very lucky to even get 30 minutes with my friend. Now bear in mind I am only just meeting this grandma (at least to my recollection) for the very first time. But she is still my grandma and in Ghana that means her word is final! I turn to my uncle who had previously been in support of the idea and was still on the phone with my friend. But now he too, not wanting to oppose his aunt, had changed his mind, and was now telling my friend that “perhaps it is too late after all!” I was totally stunned and felt so helpless I almost cried! I had been waiting for years to reunite with this friend and now I was being told that I couldn’t. In Canada, I live on my own and have been doing so for the last five years. I am responsible for myself and make all my own decisions. Now someone else was telling me what to do - I was not used to this. But if there is something I have been very mindful of since coming to Ghana, it is the way in which I carry myself. I understand that I am not just here for myself, but am also representing my family back in Canada. The last thing I want is to do or say anything that will leave a bad impression and reflect poorly on myself and my parents. So I knew I would have to handle this situation carefully. I could not argue with her - that would be the utmost sign of disrespect. Nor could I implore my uncle to appeal on my behalf - he had already switched sides.


So I sat there thinking of my friend who had been waiting all day for me and how disappointed she would be. I could choose to just keep quiet and let this chance slip by (then regret it for years to come) or I could speak up and hope for the best. I knew that I would never forgive myself if I let this go, so I mustered up enough courage and went forth to plead my case. In the sweetest voice ever I explained to her how this was my best friend from childhood, who had also been living “abroad” but then returned to live in Ghana and I haven’t seen her since. I explained how I really wanted to spend some time with her and that if I didn’t take this chance; I don’t know how many more years I would have to wait for another. Slowly, my grandma started to come around. She also has children around my age, so I knew that somewhere within her she would understand. So from a definite “it’s too late, you’re not going anywhere this evening”; I got her to change her mind. My uncle was impressed! So she allowed me to go, but not without some words of caution and strict instructions that I must be back in time for breakfast the next morning.


So that was my first introduction to my young Grandma Julie. I got to spend more time with her after that and I just totally adore her! She’s got the kindest heart and I now realize that her not wanting me to go out that night was not from any mean intentions, but purely out of her care and concern for me.



Kumasi Zoo, Cultural Center, Palace and Komfo Anokye Sword


The next day my Grandma Julie arranged for her driver to take us around Kumasi. We visited the Kumasi National Zoo, the Cultural Center and the palace of the Ashanti royals. We then went to see the legendary sword of Komfo Anokye. He was a Chief Fetish Priest from the 16th century who is credited for unifying the scattered independent chiefdoms of the Ashanti into one unified Empire. Komfo Anokye was a man of considerable spiritual strength and he had a large sword which he is said to have driven into the ground to signify the unity and longevity of the Ashanti nation.


He announced that the sword would forever remain planted in the ground and that neither no-one nor nothing would ever be able to move it. The sword has remained exactly where he planted it for over 400 years. Throughout history numerous attempts have been made to remove the sword; experts from all over the world have been brought in to examine it, and various machines have been used to try force it out of the ground - but to date all have failed and the legend of Komfo Anokye’s sword lives on.


Torwoli S. Dzuali © 2007




Coming up next: "KWAME NKRUMAH" . . .

---

---