E-T-opia

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Never will be the same. Lenses changed forever. Hopefully some of the following words and images can at least provide a snapshot of Ethiopia as I see it. Saving the philosophy discussion for another day with you in the flesh...let’s celebrate the last blog where I bombard you with all that is "LIFE IN COLOR". Be warned: Much of what occurs in Ethiopia and what I will cover on this page is unclean, uncut, unsafe, and just plain tragic. I gained only a sliver of insight into the worlds 3rd poorest country but it would be yet another social injustice if I am to shelter you from the harsh truth.

Once the icon of poverty, if you were watching American TV sets through the 80's you'll remember pleads for donations to babies with swollen bellies and flies in the eyes. While things have slightly improved since ruthless socialist experiments and various forms of inept government, you're still looking at a corrupt and barren society full of famine. Terrible infrastructure, no true democracy, political prisoners aplenty, and cyclical natural disasters that never quit. While I was touring this past month, a flash flood occurred in Dire Dawa that has taken over 1000 and counting. The same rainy season is responsible for consistent crop failure and essentially the shutdown of the roadways and sectors of the country (one day the bridge to the capital simply "broke"). With such dramatic and unrefined natural surroundings, it certainly can feel as if you're stranded in paradise. Located in the destitute Horn of Africa with an assortment of border issues concerning the neighbors of Eritrea (formed after civil war in Ethiopia), Somalia (holy war), Kenya (trade and animal migration disputes), and Sudan (genocide). Know that I've generalized the issues on hand just to give you a feel for the unrest in the area.

As a foreign traveler with white skin there are two feelings that floor me:
1) I am HUNTED and milked for anything I can possibly give including shirt, glasses, book, camera, charity donation, shelter, plane ticket to America, student sponsorship, even a green card.
2) Just walking around I can influence people with small things such as a smile, a drawing, help carrying their baby or chicken, teach a group of people basic English, act as someones legal advocate, or show off some soccer skills or dance moves to get the crowd into it. It's no different than home, but here you can really paint people with your brush of compassion as you wander about.

A Day in The Life

Lets hope that no post traumatic stress creeps into my head but just doing business and getting to the next village was beyond exhausting and sometimes life threatening. Most Ethiopians are genuinely warm and courteous, and the ones that chase you down the street reaching their hand in your pocket and bags are also warm and courteous. Getting spit on as part of a pick pocketing ruse was a new test in tolerance (and non violence). Unfortunately, I had to puff out my chest and gun people down with my eyes just to put off the hustlers and prostitutes (bitches as the locals call em). Most guesthouses run on generators and water shortages so forget about a cozy rest (did I mention malarial mosquitoes swarming around, fleas in the bed, and rats eating through my backpack!?). Try to divert your battered mind and body from the elements and the raging trucker and hoes party outside and ahhhhh sleeeep finally/maybe. At least you have the peace of mind knowing the armed guard is asleep at the gate. The day breaks to 4 different Orthodox Christian churches having unintelligible and violently loud rap battles in Amharic language. You put on the same clothes you've worn for 6 days straight and decide to get a good meal at the best restaurant in town. You fumble over the 3 options that remain the same through breakfast, lunch and dinner that include: Goat meat on injera bread, fried eggs, and spaghetti...something the Italians left behind during their 1930's occupation, along with niiiiice coffee. Go for a walk to clear your head and practice your dialogue on why you can't take a prostitute in for the night, why you can't give someone 10 dollars, and just smile and wave at literally everyone in the village. As most foreigners never reach these parts, they are especially surprised to see a guy going solo and not in a decked out Toyota Landcruiser or United Nations truck so they send the kids in for recon and screaming for money...."YOU YOU YOU...MONEY...YOU YOU YOU". They are adorable though, thankfully I could sing and dance and beat box. The animals were my savior, they graze the streets more prevalent than any other place I've traveled and are EVERYWHERE...baby anything and I stop for a 5 minute pep talk and petting...it's not like I'm in a hurry. Rushing around meant 150 miles in 3 days to be exact. Impassable mud roads, pushing trucks in the cold rain, broken bridges, swollen rivers, flat tires, police checkpoints, animal obstacles, and very infrequent means of getting around (usually in Isuzu box trucks...see photos). Spending half your day at a truck stop guarding your bags with a knife trying to negotiate your ride with the sleaziest broker in town is rough. Of course you're hesitant to snap pictures or listen to your MP3 player because it'll draw attention and remind them that they only make 75 cents a day on average.

Lifestyle

With a life expectancy of 49 years, maturity comes quick to kids through rigorous physical tasks, begging, exploitation, the works. Only the richest and most opportunistic will get to the capital for a real chance to study and maybe even attend university. The most influential and outspoken intellects have the worry of becoming one of Ethiopia's 10,000 political prisoners. The luckiest were/are able to make a life in the larger cities or abroad (mostly in Washington D.C.). I was very popular as an American especially from D.C. and was constantly invited to eat, drink, smoke, and chew their legal plant stimulant called "Chat". This plant mimics the effects of cocaine or lots of coffee and jacks your energy levels up, usually to the point of senseless chatter. You see hundreds of men munching the leaves on buses and street sides using up money and time that could be devoted to family and work (no different than any other substance abuse social problem aside from having even less salary to waste).

The land

Raw and rugged. Savanna, desert, highlands, depressions, tropical growth, ANIMALS GALLORE! The birdlife was out of control including eagles and herons, then hippos, zebras, camels, gazelles, and all the livestock wandering the countryside. In the southern town of Jinka, the airport doubles as the soccer field with cattle and sheep that are shooed off when planes land. If only the roads were intact with decent vehicles would it be a swift and comfy adventure...but I guess hard work makes you appreciate it even more. Evidently the Chinese government and contractors have over 50% of the roadworks and telecommunications projects in all of Africa. Archaeologists continue to find remains of early hominids dating up to 4 million years old, giving Ethiopia the title: Cradle of Humanity.

The People

83 languages. Multiple ethnic groups. Mostly Orthodox Christian but a large Muslim population closer to the Red Sea. Pastoral farmers and agriculture marks the average citizen. Still warring tribes over land and livestock. Scarification and other sorts of physical beauty are rife, such as lip plates and ear gauges and female circumcision. Many Ethiopians have lighter skin due to the proximity to the Middle East along an old Arab trading route and it’s only fair that I note how smmmokin hott the women are. However, this is Sub-Saharan Africa and home to the 2nd largest AIDS population on the continent next to South Africa. This disease being the single greatest threat to economic development in Africa at large while decimating the human potential and work force (10% of the population is infected in Ethiopia). Corruption and inequitable government has thwarted greater gains on many levels but you do see great work in small doses being done by altruistic individuals from NGO's, UN, USAID, PEACE CORPS, missionaries, and other humanitarian workers.

Deep breath. The passport has literally been through the washing machine and will be laid to rest for a short while. Back to this world that I started the journey from nearly 400 days and 16 countries before and it never looked so luxurious. It's been full of tear sessions and ear to ear smiles seeing many of you looking radiant in the best of celebrations: weddings and reunions. You are all warriors! Keep me attuned as your world turns and be good as always. Your words along the way have energized and inspired. All my love!

:-)

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