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Published: November 11th 2005
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Off to the camel market
An Egyptian taking some goods to the camel market down the street. Baksheesh, it has become the backbone of my distress here in Egypt. You see, baksheesh is tipping and well everyone wants baksheesh for absolutely anything, and I mean anything. I do not mind tipping at all if I feel it is warranted but it's ridiculous here. People will point you in the direction of a cafe and then ask for baksheesh. I was walking down the street the other day and this 9 year old boy stops me and asks if I want to ride his bike and I oblige but after 30 meters he says STOP and then asks for baksheesh. The worst thing is that often you give people money and then they say they want more. On the other hand I had a very good experience yesterday when I gave one of the Tomb guards in the Valley of the Queens some baksheesh and he hugged me and I could see that he genuinely appreciated it.
I had a very 'cultural experience' yesterday. I have been eating and drinking pretty much like the locals in all the countries I have been too. This caught up with me yesterday when I sat down to write a couple of emails.
The 3 symbols of the afterlife
The three things that every Pharaoh wanted from the Gods in the afterlife.
From L to R, Key of life, stability, and power. You see these 3 symbols adorned all over temples and tombs. So I ask the cafe owner if he has a toilet. He takes me down the street to Mohammeds tea house, where they have a squatting toilet with no TP, so I try to explain that I need to go big and he takes me to some other place with a toilet 3 floors up. BRILLIANT, a toilet upon which you can sit. So when all is said and done I look for the TP which does not exist. Great, however there is a shower head with nozzle next to the toilet. I know understand why Egyptians do not shake hands or serve food with their left hands! Moral of the story, bring TP wherever you go.
We took a tour of the Valley of the Kings, Queens, Hatshesput Temple and some other big monument thing yesterday. I highly recommend getting a tour guide to break things down for you because if not you find yourself staring at squiggles and birds dressed like men wandering what the hell this is all about. I have really enjoyed checking out all the sites but to tell you the truth I have not been able to appreciate them to the degree that I
The beautiful Nefertari
Ramses the 2nds most beloved wife, he built her a tomb like no other pharaoh had done before. PS 2Pac had her face tattooed on his chest with the words Women 2die4 underneath. would have liked to. The reason being that I really did not know a whole lot about the ancient Egyptians before I came, so next time I will certainly read up a lot about it all. Luxor is a pretty cool town, very touristy but if you cut back a couple of streets off the main drags you can get a real feel for the town. Went out drinking at Murphys pub the other night, it's the hot spot so to speak here in town. Drank some of Egypts fine lager, Stella. Ended up chatting to some lady from Newcastle who s birthday it was, I was a bit shocked to find it was her 43 rd! I swear she did not look that old, ask Gaddie and Adam. It has also been a bit hectic with people trying to get you into their shops. The main ploy is to start with asking you where you are from, so I say 'South Africa' then they go on about Nelson Mandela and Bafana Bafana, whatever they can think of that relates to your country of origin. So Adam and myself have started making up names for countries. Such as Ringatong and
Kosharie
Eqyptian staple of many things thrown together that tastes amazing! Try the tahini as well with pita. Bingwing. HAHA, the funny thing is that everyone pretends to have heard of that country and some of them even dare to throw out a couple of things that they think pertains to this non existent country. Bargaining here is an art. In Egypt you have to bargain for everything. From the scarf for your mother to toothpaste in the pharmacy. It is RIDICULOUS. It really is. Nothing has prices on it which makes it tough. But the thing is no matter what you do, only pay how much you want to pay. I do this now, I see what I like. I ask how much, they tell me a crazy price. Then I say to them, alight here is the deal. I am going to tell you how much I am willing to pay and if you agree I give you the money right now, if not I walk out to bargaining. I find this works the best.
Going to the Red Sea today to go diving, yes I know we are doing the generic tourist two week trip through Egypt, but hey. It's fun.
Shokran, Ma'as Salem
PS you find juice stands all over, that take pieces of
sugar cane and crush them into juice for you. You'll be bouncing off the walls.
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jessica
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enjoyed reading, and ur trip looks good. agreed on the TP!or maybe tissue packs are more convenient? :)