Im in Aswan...where are you?

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Finding the train station to get to Aswan was a bit of a hassle. We received directions from the owner of the hostel, but didn't quite realize we had to take a train 2 stops to get there. Marsha and I wandered around the train station area for about an hour, to no avail. I was getting quite frustrated, as the overnight sleeper trains we were planning to take usually filled up quickly. It was hot and sticky, people everywhere. Finally, I made the decision to take a cab, regardless of the distance. It turned out to be a smart move, since the drive there took well over 20 min. We finally arrived at the ticket booth and found out that in fact, the sleeper trains to Aswana and Luxor were fully booked. Our other only options were to book an uncomfortable bus ride, or an uncomfortable seated train ride. We opted for the latter. The only train available was to Luxor. That was fine for Marsha. I however, was headed to Aswan, about 3 hrs. South of Luxor. I decided to go with Marsha to Luxor, then figure out my plans upon my arrival. A bus from Luxor would be leaving at 715am, 2 hours after the train arrival. The schedule was spotty at best, so I decided that I would remain on the train after Luxor and see what happened.
After securing our tickets for the 12 hr overnight train, we decided to have lunch. Marsha was craving pizza. I have to say, so was I. There was a local Sbarro's near the American University, so we grabbed a taxi and headed there. The 5km ride took about 30 min. Traffic was more than congested and my frustrations grew, since we still had to go to Khan al Khalili Market, a huge bazaar for tourists and locals alike. Famished, we arrived at Sbarro's only to see that renovations were taking place outside. We couldn't enter. What a day. We walked around the corner and found a Pizza Hut. That was good enough for both of us. It wasn't as good as expected, but what the hell, it was a Pizza Hut in Cairo.
Afterwards, we headed back to the hostel and rested for 30 min. before catching a taxi to the crowded market. More crowds, tourists and local sellers and touts littered the streets. Before entering the actual bazaar, a young Asian woman approached us and asked us where the bazaar was. Her name was Sherry. I asked her to join us, since being a woman and alone in the area wasn't the best idea. She happily agreeed and we set out to find souvenirs for our friends. Sherry was a 25 year old university grad, originally from CHina. She was in the telephone industry, based out of Libya. She was in Cairo for business meetings, but had a week or so to herself. We walked through the busy markets, often being stopped by local hawkers of merchandise. We came upon a mosque at the end of one of the streets. While snapping photos, we were motioned over by a man ahnging out in front of the mosque. He offered to show us around for a fee of 10 egyptian pounds each. We talked him down to 10 for all 3 of us. It was nice to get out of the busy streets and into the solitude of the beautiful mosaque. My Arabic being limited, I wasn't too sure which mosque we were at, as there were tens of them in the Islamic section of Cairo. It was quite stunning, however. Built sometime in the mid 1400's, the architecture was stunning. The front entrance of the mosque contained a tomb, of whose I'm unsure. The domed seiling was 40 meters high, containing very colorful, intricately designed windows. The tomb area opened up into a huge courtyard with columns and gold inked ceilings. The acoustics were amazing, as our guide demonstrated by yelling "Allah" a few times. The echo reverberated throughout the area, into the courtyard. We then had the pivilege of being escorted to the roof of the mosque. We were able to see the courtyard below, plus the other visible mosques in the area. Our roof guide snapped photos for us as we were taking in the scenery.
The tour ended, and they asked for more money because of the snapped photos. I shook my head no. It seems like everyone is trying to get something for essentially nothing. If there is pne drawback to Egypt, its that fact. People want money for everything. We purchased some souvenirs, well worth the price. A bit of bargaining was in order, but that is the fun of these kinds of places. Dinner was in order after shopping. we caught a taxi ride back to our hostel area. I wanted to have a nice dinner, since it had been a while. We ate at a restaurant we passed by the day before. It was definitely fancier than what we were used to. For $10 a piece, we ate very well. The waiters were all wearing tuxedos and the clientele was decidedly foreign and or rich locals. After dinner and dessert, I asked for the check. Sherry, in her infinite kindness, offered to pay the tab. She would never see us again and it was customary. We reluctantly agreed, after much hesitation. Such a nice gesture from such a sweet young woman. Although her English was broken, we were able to communicate quite well. We said our goodbyes to Sherry and rushed back to the hostel. We had about an hour before our train would depart. I packed my things, changed in the kitchen and we were off in another taxi ride. Because traffic was heavy, Marsha was worried we would miss our ride South. We arrived with 30 min. to spare and for a brief 10 min. Marsha and I lost each other in the crowd. Since we both knew what platform our train departed from, I headed there after waiting and looking around a bit. A sigh of releif came over both our faces as we viewed each other on platform #8. We were both sweating, but relieved. I celebrated by buying both of us orange sodas. We weren't looking forward to the unconfortable journey ahead.
The seats weren't as horrible as expected. In fact, it was quite comfortable to what we had imagined. The seats were located in an enclosed cabin, 6 seats in total. We were joined by a young Japanese couple, another male Japanese tourist, and eventually, a white Westerner. He didn't say much, and there was a definitel language barrier with the ouple. The Japanese man next to me was able to communicate freely. His English was excellent. He was here for pleasure and was traveling through Egypt. We talked for a while before falling asleep. In and out of consciousness, we finally awoke to the stop in Luxor. I said goodbye to Marsha and stayed in my seat. I expected a mass of people to enter my car. No one else entered my cabin, let alone the train car itself. Everything was coming up Milhouse. The tickettaker came around. I let him know I needed to purchase one. He tried to charge me 100 Egytian pounds for the trip. I looked at him incredulously. He lowered his price to 45, mere dollars, but that wasn't the point. I agreed, defeated. The actual price, after looking in my book, was 30. Oh well, so I lost $2.
For the next 3 hrs., I dozed in an out of a restful sleep, since I was able to stretch my legs out comfortable. The first thing I had to do after my arrival in Aswan, was to secure a hotel room. Next would be to check the internet for Nicola's message, so we would be able to meet. Aswan was hot....very hot. I followed whatI thought were the correct directions to the hotel. I wandered around aimlessly for 30 min. with all my belongings...not comfortabel, especially in the heat. I made my way back to the train staition before realizing where I went wrong. I walked pass the station, the hotel only a block or two away. Fortunately, I also ran into Nicola. She was awaiting my arrival, looking to meet this cheeky bastard.
We walked to my hotel only to find the prices double what was quoted in the book. The hotel had undergone major renovations since the last publication of Lonely Planet. It was double the rates. For just over $10, we secured a nice double with air conditioning, private bathroom and shower. I was splurging a bit, but was in no mood to walk all over the city for "reasonable rates."
After a well needed shower, we headed out to lunch, just next door. Then, it was off to a feluca ride up and down the Nile. We negotiated our way to a ride for 20 each (a little over 3 US). Ahhh, tranquility. The city square was busy as all hell, but the Nile was peaceful and calm. For the next 2 hrs., we relaxed and snapped photos of the islands on the Nile and other feluca and motor boats buzzing by. Accompanying us was the Captain and his 2 young children, very cute.
Dinner was at a local pizza place not too far from our hotel. It was probably not a good idea because of my lactose intolerance and mystery ingredients, but we were hungry and were sick of shwarmas. It was time to break into the bottle of whisky I purchased in Cairo for 17. Filling up a half full coke bottle with whiskey, we walked along the nile and found a quiet spot in front of a large cruise vessel. Two hours later, back into the room for a quick nap before our trip to Abu Simbel at 3am.
Tap, tap, tap....quiet knocking on the door for our wakeup call. We loaded onto the minibus after picking up ouir boxed breakfasts in the lobby. 3 hours cramped in a bus at 330 am was not my definition of a good time, but the sights at Abu Simbel would more than make up for it. We walked through the temples of Ramses the II and his wife, Nefertari. The structures were originally located at water level. The government was going to flood the original location, ruining the monuments. However, through much international fanfare and protest, money was raised and donated to move the structures to another location, where it is today. Quite an amazing feat considering the sheer underataking of the project.

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Photos

Cairo
Khan al Khalili

Cairo
Mosque in Islamic Cairo

Cairo
atop the mosque

Aswan
on the Nile feluca

Aswan
two Nile captains

Aswan
the Nile

Aswan
Prophet Mohammed's birthday celebration

Abu Simbel
Ramses II temple

Abu Simbel
Nefertari Temple

Comments

[glenda]

HOLA
whats up handsome!! awesome pictures!! wish i was there too. three more weeks before i graduate, can't wait. shamrock fest was wild, climbed a wall for the first time and beat my opponent even though i was trashed :) cant wait to c u again...best wishes....Glenda