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Published: April 21st 2006
Egypt Pyramid
Words can't describe.What possibly could be written about Cairo and the pyramids that hasn't already been written? Besided the nightmare of getting here (my flight was cancelled the last minute from Addis Ababa, Ethiopia to Cairo) I more or less expected what I have experienced. Uh...besides the street children, trinket hawkers, smell of camel dung, expensive taxis from the airport and Pizza Hut.
Travis and I once again embarked on another adventure that took us to Egypt. We had done little, if any, real planning other than our flights, so when we arrived (he 8 hours ahead of me) we wanted to take in as much as we could in the few days we will be here. After checking into the Sheraton Royal Gardens (4 stars and worth both the price and location) we arranged for a driver to take us to wherever we wanted to go. The first driver, arranged by a local man named Sammy, was less than....uh....dull. Our driver discouraged us from going places due to the traffic or the cost of entry and we felt a bit frustrated. When asked to see the Nile River and he dropped us
Egypt Pyramid
Travis and I on our first visit to the pyramids. off at a place that was a horrible vantagepoint, obstructed by trees, walkway walls and restaurants. I don't remember the Bible stories ever mentioning any thing like this. We took one photo and got back into the vehicle en route to the famous Cairo market.
As soon as you begin your march into the catacombs of this marketplace you immediately feel like a fish out of water, being knocked on the head by hawkers and restaurant employees grabbing your arm to pull you into their extremely overpriced menus. I say stay away! We tried to ignore them, but after a few grabs I was more assertive in telling them to leave me alone, "Keep your hands off me!" I shouted and proceeded on my way. Imagine every conceivable item you could manufacture in China resembling pyramids, the Sphinx, camels, swords, trinkets and just plain 'ol junk, and you'll find it here. If you think this is Cairo, then think again. Its a tourist trap beyond comprehension and I suggest that if you want to find nice, inexpensive souvenirs, then get out into the outskirts of Cairo or Nasr City...or do what we did. We stumbled onto a jewelry designer
Shisha Smoking in Cairo
I got to take a few puffs, too. Not bad! and craftsman while searching for a restroom. Climbing the old stairs to the second floor of a building tucked away inside the market area I asked I could take photos while working on their skills. Both of the men obliged and welcomed our presence as we watched them use torches to heat their gold to make custom rings. Travis and I felt we had found a place in which to buy the 'real' stuff made in Egypt and so we decided to have our own custom items made; Travis a silver crucifix pendant and I ordered a silver bracelet with "One World" enscribed in Arabic. The prices were insanely less than the street market and more personal. Perfect. We found our own Cairo market, far from China.
The next morning we awoke more refreshed and even as I write this I can hear the sounds of the Muslim prayers being blasted into the city from atop the towers of their mosques. Its a reminder that I'm not in Kansas anymore. This past day we began the day with a new driver arranged by our hotel (Rada, a kind gentleman, dressed nicely, very informative, accomodating and in a comfortable Mercedes)
Jewelry Artists in Cairo Market
We ordered our custom jewelry at a fraction of street tourist prices and left the hotel at 5am to get our soon-to-be-best-photo-op of the pyramids. Little did we know but the official grounds surrounding the pyramids didn't open until 8am, so we were stuck with perching ourselves a kilometer away and taking shots from a freeway. Not how we envisioned our first encounter with one of the wonders of the world! So, in the meantime we went back into town to get some coffee. Our driver, Rada, presented us to a localcoffee shop and smokehouse near the entrance to the pyramids.
Once inside the hole in the wall, we were greeted by two other men offering us coffee, falafels, and shisha, a tobacco smoked from one of those really neat pipes with long braided hoses (I need to Google that so I can be educated in the name). Being well-travelled I knew the catch and after a cup or two of the most harsh and strong Turkish coffee (could have used it as mortar to build a mosque) I awaited the inevitable pitch...and yup...here it comes. Amir, one of the kind men, pulled up a tattered posterboard with numerous photos of the pyramids, camels and Arabian horses. He gently explained that
he could be our guide and went through his long list of different 'packages' including camels, horses and even shish-kababs in the desert. Travis and I knew we would only be here for a few days, so we were reluctant to do too much negotiating in fear we would lose the opportunity altogether. I tried to explain how important it was that we were able to position ourselves in the desert to get a good photo and that we would also later come back to go out again for a sunset photo shoot. Using ashtrays and coasters to represent the pyramids atop the coffee table, I instructed them on where I would like them to take us. Never having been here and not familiar with the sun's point of horizon made things more difficult. I would later find out that my stupidity, not ignorance, in the fact that the pyramids run northeast to southwest and the sun sets directly west made my dream photo impossible. Hardly a way to convince my hosts that I needed to have the pyramids lined up with the sun directly behind them as it set. Duh.
We set off on our first jaunt of
Herb Vendor Selling to Locals
Two women buy herb from a local vendor. the day with Amir into the pyramids. We walked via the back streets and Amir slipped some payola to the guards. It was clear there was a serious breach in protocol in how tourist enter the secure grounds. I was not aware ahead of time and didn't want to question things as it could have made things worse. After being inside, Amir was quite informative in Egyptian history and did his best in explaining everything he knew and answered our questions with a good sense of knowledge. He also gave us warning to ignore the hawkers and to stick with him as he proceeded to take us (after another bribe) into a well-fenced area where the tombs of the pyramid laborers were excavated and where your average bus tour didn't take you. Okay...so why not get the private tour. Not our fault we didn't want to follow a bunch of sheep with the head ram holding a flag to follow and told when to get back on the bus. We were explorers, dammit! We wanted something more! And we did.
Later that day, after visiting the Citidel and other Cairo tourist interests, Travis and I returned to Amir's business
Egyptian Mosque
The serenity is quite lifting. to continue our previously arranged venture into the pyramids. I wanted to have the experience of riding a camel in Egypt, while Travis, an experienced horseman, wanted to get an Arabian so he could play Ali Baba in the sand. Short of weilding his sword and wearing a white robe, Travis resembled the true essence of an Egyptian, except for his white skin, blonde hair, cargo pants, Thai bracelets and fluency of the English language. I, by the way, had been told I looked Egyptian simply because of my goatee. But my skills as a camel pilot made it clear that I needed more help if I was to blend into the Egyptian culture. My @ss felt like it was in a kicking contest and lost, while Travis galloped his high-spirited Arabian equine across the sand dunes like a real Egyptian. So much for growing my goatee.
Amir and his helper, Amir the Small (no joke, that's what they call him), led us into the sandy dunes surrounding the pyramids. He took us to a 'high mountain' to observe the sunset and I have to say it was incredibly wonderful. The sun was golden, the wind warm and dry
Travis Looting The Tombs
He made of with sand and an old Coca-cola bottle. and the sight of the pyramids in the distance could not have been discribed better in National Geographic magazine. We were alone atop this mountain and enjoying every moment. As the sun set, we quickly tried to get our best shots with little time. And to get the even better photo shot, we had to hurriedly run our animalsover to another location to set up our tripods. This time, Amir took the helm of my camel and left me in the back with no stirups or place to hold on to. He let out strange sounds to encourage the camel to run while I frantically tried to hold my camera still while I bounced up and down like a kernel of popcorn in a theatre popcorn hopper. I was sure I had shortened my stature by three inches and my lumbar vertebraes number 4 and 5 had fused or at the least been herniated. But we made it.
As the sun finally took its last breaths behind the third and smallest pyramid, we were served kababs, beer and soda on a comfortable blanket. All alone in the desert overlooking the pyramids while the toursts below and far away, crowded
John Finds New Undiscovered Tomb
Don't tell anyone...it's a secret! and unaware of the true experience outside the organized tours, watched the pyramids as they lighted them with floodlights in the darkness. We relaxed, sipped our warm beer and sat quietly as we simply enjoyed our moment of peace.
It was dark now, and while riding my camel (did I mention his name was Charlie Brown?) I found myself saying out loud to myself: "I'm on a camel in Egypt with the pyramids beside me". It finally had become a reality. I was in Cairo.
PS: Mom, even as much of the world you have travelled, I know how much you've always wanted to come to see the pyramids. I was thinking of you while atop that mountain wish you could see what I could see. Perhaps you did. I love you and hope you are doing well. -- Johnny
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jamie
non-member comment
sweeeeet!!!!
How sweet is that?