Putting the "Bad" in Ahmedabad

Ahmedabad was an interesting place. Being India’s 6th largest city, it didn’t have the relics and sites that one would expect, though it didn’t need them. The city was like the Manchester or New England for India as a place that underwent an industrial revolution, drawing millions from the countryside to work in its textile factories. As such, the city is more of a blue-collar city with most of its workforce being employed in industrial settings. Interestingly enough, most of the Indians I know in the States had roots in Ahmedabad’s state of Gujarat. Most “Guju’s” were known as savvy businessmen and as such, translated their skills to the international stage or were able to realize opportunities abroad. I had been drawn to the city primarily for the purpose of visiting the Sabarmati Ashram, known as the starting place of Ghandi’s civil disobedience movement. What I found was a really interesting, though crowded place, full of nice and inquisitive people.

In all major cities in India, touts circle around train stations, bus stops and airports. Ahmedabad was no different - I walked out of the main terminal and was rushed by touts like a celebrity and paparazzi. After declining all the touts’ suggestions, I had to find a place to break out a guidebook as doing so in public under the opportunistic gaze of the touts is a very big traveler faux pas. If they smell a guidebook, they will be relentless in their pursuit of a commission. Eventually, I found what I thought would be a suitable place and left the station. After checking in, I slept for about five hours and woke up at noon. Surprised by where the day had gone, I quickly organized my itinerary, and head off to see the most I could in my two full days in Ahmedabad.

I first walked to the Sidi Bashir Mosque, famous for its two 21 meter tall, shaking minarets (jhutta miners) that were constructed to withstand earthquakes, and had withstood the region’s big earthquake in 2001. The mosque was interesting, but not very big or awe-inspiring. However, I checked it off the list and moved on to my next issue.

The Hindu Navratri or “Festival of Nine Nights” was going on and I wanted to find out where it was scheduled to take place. Lonely Planet had indicated the tourist information center was over the river, and instructed tourists to ask rickshaw drivers to take me to the “HK House.” I proceeded to ask drivers “How much to HK House?” but none of them knew where that was. In a last ditch effort, I broke out my guidebook to show the driver where on the map the building was located, and amazingly, was surrounded by touts in a matter of seconds! I couldn’t believe it. In frustration, I said “F it, I’m going to walk,” which was either a big mistake or truly fortuitous choice, which will be explained later.

While waking through the city, I noted there were zero other tourists on the streets. I was literally the only non-Indian, which had its benefits. With very few tourists, there were also very few corresponding street touts. This was a nice break from my previous experience in Mumbai, and I was able to see more of the city because of it. I had experienced a similar phenomenon in Alexandria after visiting Cairo (I Heart Alex), and it really made me appreciate Alex. The same effect was true for Ahmedabad. More people were interested in knowing who I was and from where I came rather than if I wanted to buy a trinket. Along this walk, I was able to verify stereotype #2: Indian children love foreigners. For pretty much the entire duration of the walk, I had an entourage of five kids following me, asking the same questions - what is your name, where are you from, how many kids do I have. After these questions, the kids wouldn’t leave, and would stand around, smiling and staring at me. It was pretty funny!

After about four hours of walking around, I finally stumbled upon the HK House and the closed tourist center. Incredible! I had gotten lost a few times trying to find this obscure center, and was not surprised the rickshaws didn’t know the HK House. I think fate had wanted me not to find the place in time. My mistake was underestimating the distance, and walking around for four miles without knowing the city that well. There was one more site I wanted to see before heading back to my hotel - the Bhadra Fort. The fort was built in 1411 by the cities founder, Ahmed Shah, but was partially ruined by the 2001 earthquake that the shaking minarets withstood. After finding the fort only to learn it was closed, I met Jan and Amaro, two Europeans, wandering around the fort. We struck up a conversation and I found out they were planning on seeing the Navratri as well. All of a sudden, I had people with whom to go to the festival and knew where it was being held. This was why not taking a rickshaw to the tourist information center was a fortuitous choice.

Over dinner, Jan, Amaro and I had some great conversations. Jan, a Dutchman, was volunteering for a micro-credit program “PRYAS,” similar to Mohammed Yunus’ Grameen Bank for which he won the Noble Prize for Economics. He had yet to start working, but it was still very interesting to hear about his responsibilities. I had read Yunus’ “Banker to the Poor” on this trip and had the topic fresh on my mind. Amaro was a Spanish film student studying in Paris. He had spent a year in Delhi while in University, and decided to return to India. Amaro had chosen more “off the beaten path” places as later that night he would leave for a little village in rural Gujarat to see the life of tribesmen. Their stories made my touristy trip sound trite, though that’s okay. I am a M’Zungu.

After dinner, we headed off for the university grounds where the official Navratri festival was being held. The massive grounds were set up to hold a few thousand people there to celebrate their culture with dancing and singing performances from all over the state. Women in bright and colorful dresses and men in traditional garb danced and sang on stage while thousands of people watched and walked around the festival grounds. I hope my pictures reflect the beauty of their dancing. At that festival, I was approached by quite a few Indians and struck up conversations. They were surprised to see a tourist given the recent bombings that had taken place in India with the most recent one occurring about 30 kilometers from Ahmedabad. I was not aware of this latest bombing, but wanted to appear confident, and took my response from the Bush/ Blair Greatest Anti-Terrorism Speeches: “we can’t let the terrorists affect what we do, otherwise they win.” I laughed when I said this, as I don’t think the statement got passed the language barrier. In any case, I met many very nice people there, and knew I would leave Ahmedabad with a great opinion of the place regardless of the lack of relics and sites.

The next day, I was to go to the Sabarmati Ashram where Ghandi had started his work - that day would be Ghandi’s Birthday, an Indian national holiday. Even with the crowds, I was in awe of the Ashram and Ghandi Museum. To learn of Ghandi’s influential life was very fascinating, and it was easy to see how he is considered the “Father of India.”

My time in Ahmedabad was short but very rewarding. I was able to speak with very nice people and see more of a non-western Indian city. The festival was colorful and beautiful, and the Ghandi Ashram was inspiring. For people thinking about traveling to the area, I would highly recommend it. It is full of great people and Indian culture. Good luck Jan and Amaro. Thanks for the company.

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