Enter the Druk

We have just one week left of "work" before traveling east a little into Bhutan for about a week. The quotation marks are necessary for several reasons. Similar to previous locations, "work days" are typically from 9 to 3. This is not unexpected and, now, not a novelty. I'm at the point where, if we finish at 3:15, I feel entitled to reward myself for all my hard work. I'm sure this newly embraced work ethic will translate well to my fellowship next year. Secondly, unlike previous locations, I have not touched a patient operatively. The design in Bhutan is for the volunteers to purely observe and make suggestions when appropriate. It has been fine, but it would get pretty old if this were longer than a month. Lastly, and most significantly, we have come at a time in Bhutan that must be "the Year of the Mid-Week Holiday." I think I have worked more than two days in a row once, what with all the coronation, centenary, and "Buddhism came to Bhutan" celebrations. But let me be clear on one thing: I am not complaining.

The coronation was a very cool and unique experience. I did not believe in magic before coming to Bhutan. It is not due to any revelations, visions, levitating lamas, or demon possessions that I have changed my views. It is because, allegedly, Bhutanese men are able to put on their traditional ghos independently. Noor and I found that you need at least four hands, three attempts, and somewhere to lay down during the gowning process for it to be successful. The ceremony itself was interesting. The first day we sat in the stands with the common folk, with the sun beating down on us and my allergies raging from all the dust in the air. The stadium didn't have an accessible bathroom in the stands (an obvious oversight coming from the realm of Bears, Hawks, and Millers Light) and we made it until about noon before distending bladders forced our royal retreat. The next day we utilized the passes given to us by the Minister of Health and sat in a tent on the field. It was much more comfortable with shade, tea, food, and facilities. The day was more entertaining as well, as the dancing and music was supplemented with a strongman and archery contest. I think it was the first strongman competition I have ever seen that wasn't on a TV in a cowboy bar with Magnus ver Magnusson participating.

Apart from that, in our free time we have mainly been hanging around the Thimphu area. As part of the tourism restriction in Bhutan, foreigners are not allowed to travel out of the two major cities without a road permit, and many temples and villages require further approval before visiting. The area around here provides ample places to explore, and we have also visited an art school, heritage museum, traditional medicine hospital, and several local restaurants. Our trip to the east is much-anticipated from both Noor and I, and I'm sure we will see some amazing sights by traveling as far in country as a region called Bumthang.

It has been nice to stay here working for a month to get a better sense of the culture as well. Sure, it's beautiful. Sure, the people are friendly. Sure, it's fun to tell everyone the stories about villagers performing menial tasks in picturesque settings. But it's a real country, with real people and real problems. There is greed, laziness, racism, and all the other weakness that define what it is to be human. It's true, most are content. But it is content in the way that someone is glad they are not hungry or too cold. Life is still simple for the majority, but I can forsee that will change as the country matures. In our world, isolation is unrealistic and the maintenance of untainted tradition and culture impossible. Bhutan will certainly hold onto more of its identity than most, but modernization, to some degree, is inevitable. But that's the way things are. And I'm having too much fun to worry about it.

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