Limerick (Bunratty) - Day 2 - Birr Castle Demesne, Roscrea Castle, Garden and Damer House and Three Bridges Walk

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This morning, we were faced with the most mouth-watering array of food for breakfast. There were enough continental breakfast items to feed a small army and then the option to order eggs and bacon. Fresh fruit and tinned fruits, cereal, pancakes, scones, bread and butter pudding and apple pie (yes, really! for breakfast!) pain au chocolat and other delicious pastries, a variety of breads, meats and cheeses. Something for everyone.

It was a glorious sunny morning in Bunratty as we set out towards Birr. We returned along the M7 this time heading north as far as Junction 26 where we turned off onto the N52 which delivered us to Birr in just under an hour. Unfortunately, as we drove north the sun disappeared and we found ourselves driving though a heavy mist/fog? We were worried that we might be underdressed for the weather in Birr? We found some street parking easily at just after 10.00am, purchased ‘Pay & Display’ tickets for two hours and made our way into the Castle Demesne and Ireland’s Historic Science Centre.

With the weather so overcast we explored the Historic Science Centre first. The centre features eight fascinating galleries showcasing the inventions and achievements of the Parsons family in the sciences of astronomy, photography and engineering.

When we ventured outdoors again it was to find that the sun had burnt off the cloud and it was warming up rapidly. Bernie returned to the car to retrieve his sunglasses and drop off our puffer vests.

With the sun shining on our backs, we walked out into the grounds towards The Great Telescope. The telescope, sometimes called the Leviathon of Parsontown, was built by the 3rd Earl of Rosse in 1845 to further his astronomical studies. The telescope was the biggest in the world for 70 years and attracted many astronomers who shared the Earl’s passion for astronomy. From the lawn adjacent to the telescope, we had a fantastic few back towards Birr Castle. The castle has served as the home of the Parsons family (Earls of Rosse) since 1620. As we walked along the gravel road towards the telescope the countess herself drove along the road in the opposite direction.

We walked across the lawn towards the Meridian Stones and the Meridian Oak. The north-south alignment of the telescope marked by these stone pillars meant that the stars could be more easily plotted. The Meridian Oak is a very impressive 500 years old!

We made our way into the Whirlpool Spiral a plantation of lime trees planted in the spiral shape of the M51 Whirlpool Galaxy which was discovered by the Earl in 1845. The planting of the trees in 1995 celebrated the 150th anniversary of the discovery. Our next stop was in the beautiful Formal Gardens designed by Anne, the 6th Countess of Rosse to celebrate her marriage to the 6th Earl, Michael, in 1935.

With acres of the demesne unexplored we needed to return to the cars with our parking about to expire. Having leant about the copy of the Gospel Book of Macregol of Birr held in the Birr Library, Steve was keen to make our way there to have a look at it. The original, held in the Bodleian Library, dates from the 9th century when it was written and illuminated by Macregol who was scribe, bishop and Abbott at Birr Monastery. The Birr Historical Society obtained permission to make one exhibition copy for display in the Birr Library.

Before leaving Birr, we lunched at the Villa Café. I didn’t have eggs and bacon for breakfast, so I ordered a BLT on a ciabatta for lunch. The others opted for sandwiches that didn’t contain bacon. I’m not sure if that was out of concern about eating cured meat two meals in a row or other sandwich options just appealed to them more, ha, ha.

We headed south on the N62 to Roscrea to visit OPW site Roscrea Castle, Gardens and Damer House. The site was very quiet, and we were the only visitors. Initially we said that we would just have a look around the outside of the buildings and the gardens but the staff sort of insisted on giving as a guided tour of the the castle tower. It’s the beginning of the tourist season so I think they were happy to have some tourists in!

After a look around the gardens, we were treated to an unscheduled tour of the Damer House. The castle was purchased in the 18th century and Damer House was built within the castle walls after a hole was punched into the wall to allow access for horses and carriages! The house is a three-story Queen Anne styled house constructed of local rubble sandstone. The house boasts a magnificent hand-carved staircase made of Oregon Red Pine and a carved stone doorway. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take any photos inside the house.

We took the freeway back towards Limerick heading into the city on the R527 and finding a park in the Arthur Quay car park. We walked down to the River Shannon to complete the ‘Three Bridges Walk’. We headed upriver and across the River Abbey using a pedestrian bridge at its confluence with the Shannon. The bridge overlooks the 1844 Mathew Bridge designed by local architect William Henshaw Owen.

We walked past St Mary’s Cathedral on Bridge Street. Founded in 1168 St Mary’s Cathedral is the oldest building in Limerick still in use for its original purpose. As we neared the seven-arched, limestone Thomond Bridge (1840) the view was dominated by the 800-year-old King John’s Castle on Nicholas Street. We made our way across the bridge to the Treaty Stone on Clancy Strand before strolling along the other side of the river eventually making our way across the Sarsfield Bridge. It was a glorious afternoon for a riverside walk.

Another day of sightseeing under our belts we headed back to our home away from home before heading out this evening to Dirty Nelly’s for dinner. Bernie and I decided to walk along to the pub because we had been assured by the B&B owner that it would be perfectly safe to do so … even though there is no footpath. Hmmn, we didn’t die, but it was a bit scary! Cathy and Steve opted to drive down. Which is probably just as well as we were treated to a thunderstorm during dinner! It was still raining by the time we finished our dinner, so we cadged a lift ‘home’.



Steps: 14,456 (9.33kms)

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